Bottom paint?

[BellBoyBob]

Hi all:

I think I have decided on the Interlux Perfection / Primkote combo for the painting re-do in April - May. I will be seeking advice, I am sure, as I finish all the prep work before priming / painting. In the mean time I am purchasing the materials I will need to do the job. I am going to paint the hull including the bottom in the same color. I don't NEED to go with an anti fouling paint since I am in fresh water and trailer the boat each time I use it, do I ?? Will Perfection topside paint be adequate for the bottom of the hull in my case?

Thanks,

Bob

[bham-rick]

Not necessary

You don't need the bottom paint if you don't leave it in the water especially fresh water

[FINS]

We used Interlux products on our Tollycraft restoration and were really happy with the results. We rolled and tipped both the bottom color and the varnish. It took just a little playing to find that we added two cap fulls of the brushing liquid (333 I think) to a 10 ounce cup of paint. Used disposible foam rollers and disposable 3" foam brushes. Check out Jamestown or one of the other online suppliers for brushes and rollers. We bought a box of 50 for like $20 and went through most of them. I will look back through my notes and see if there were any other great tips that we learned and I am forgetting.

[FINS]

You are right by the way eith not needing the bottom paint. The Interlux reps told us the Perfection is fine for even a few days in the water at a time.

[Steve_Kiesel]

Bob, if your going with the roll and tip method, have a good buffer on hand. A little light buffing will remove any brush strokes.

If you don't already have a buffer, don't go the Harbor Freight route like I did. That buffer lasted about two hours and went poof. I opened it up, and it was fried big time. My new rule is "if it requires power" don't go to Harbor Freight.

So now I have a name brand buffer and have put many hours on it. Still running like a champ. (Don't remember the brand)

Have fun with the project Bob.

[Marty Loken (Norseboater)]

Bottom paint

Bob -

As others have said, Perfection will be fine for your typical day-trip use, but I wouldn't leave the boat in the water for more than a few days without actual bottom paint...and I definitely wouldn't consider using any of the one-part paints (like Brightside or Easypoxy) for the bottom.

Interlux VIVID is a great, harder and non-sloughing bottom paint to use for trailer boats. It doesn't have serious anti-fouling properties, but with VIVID you could leave your boat in the water for months on end if you wished. Seems like the trouble with some of the non-bottom paints is that chemicals in the water--yes, even clean-looking freshwater lakes--can cause bubbling of conventional topside paints when left in the water for more than a few days. (Witness the issues cited last year by NWCBC member Karl Harris, who had his boat in lake water and ended up with serious failure of the non-bottom paint.)

- Marty

[BellBoyBob]

Bob, if your going with the roll and tip method, have a good buffer on hand. A little light buffing will remove any brush strokes.

If you don't already have a buffer, don't go the Harbor Freight route like I did. That buffer lasted about two hours and went poof. I opened it up, and it was fried big time. My new rule is "if it requires power" don't go to Harbor Freight.

So now I have a name brand buffer and have put many hours on it. Still running like a champ. (Don't remember the brand)

Have fun with the project Bob.

Steve -

Did you buff in between coats or did you buff after the final coat of Perfection was applied and cured?

Thanks,
Bob

[Bigfoot]

Bob -

As others have said, Perfection will be fine for your typical day-trip use, but I wouldn't leave the boat in the water for more than a few days without actual bottom paint...and I definitely wouldn't consider using any of the one-part paints (like Brightside or Easypoxy) for the bottom.

Interlux VIVID is a great, harder and non-sloughing bottom paint to use for trailer boats. It doesn't have serious anti-fouling properties, but with VIVID you could leave your boat in the water for months on end if you wished. Seems like the trouble with some of the non-bottom paints is that chemicals in the water--yes, even clean-looking freshwater lakes--can cause bubbling of conventional topside paints when left in the water for more than a few days. (Witness the issues cited last year by NWCBC member Karl Harris, who had his boat in lake water and ended up with serious failure of the non-bottom paint.)

- Marty

What do you think about Interlux Trilux 33 white??? Is it equal to the vivid??? A person I know is going to use this on his lower hull!!! Thanks for your thoughts... Mike

[Marty Loken (Norseboater)]

Bottom Paints

Mike -

Sorry, but I haven't tried the Trilux 33, so I can't compare it with Vivid.

- Marty

[Steve_Kiesel]

Bob, the buffing was after the final coat of paint. I was using my hatch cover to test my skills. It was a small area, so I did wet sand in between coats. I'm not sure wet sanding is required. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in on sanding between coats.

On the buffing, I waited a few days before buffing to let the paint set up a little more. I was using the one part Interlux. I started out with a fine grit, running the buffer as slow as it would go. I think that was 300 rpm. Then I buffed it with a 3M polish. The final step was to buff in some wax.

Hope that helps. I'm sure others have techniques that work as well.

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

Primekote 404

If you are using Interlux Primekote 404 epoxy primer be sure to apply the overcoat within two weeks, else the primer will be so hard and slick, not much will stick to it! This info from International paint tech staff.

[Bigfoot]

I dont think you want to wax untill atleast 6 weeks after the last coat of paint is laid on.

Bob, check out this link. The guy painted it with Interlux paint. The precess works. I did it on my Sea Swirl 6 months ago but I used Rustoleum.
http://www.cbhforums.com/index.php?showtopic=2774