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  • Transom Repair

    Howdy I'm a newbie with a soft trasom. It's been very helpfull to read past threads, thanks for participating in this site.
    I.m working on a' 84 21' Arrowglass and by what I'm finding this seems to be a light weight boat, stringers were just laid up onto the hull with 3-4" of fabric up the sides, not over the top of 3/4" boards. Every example I've seen has been foam or wood enclosed. so far I am planning to use marine ply ,it fits snug and epoxy it in.
    Transom is 1 3/4" with a plywood core, fitted with a I/O drive unit. It's soft for about a 8" tall X 14" area to starboard of the I/O cutout. But only 3/4" deep, two pieces of 3/4" ply apparently were sandwitched.
    Beyond this 3/4" depth and this oval area I find solid wood.
    I've gotten this far because I was investigating a piece of soft floor.
    I guess I've just needed to chat, I've just printed West System's Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintence guide as I have been typing so Ive got some studying to do.
    Any opinions on Arrowglass boats?
    Two months ago I told my wife " just two weekends and I'll be shaking her down". Well it's kept me out of the bars. Just kidding.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Paul, post: 12171
    Howdy I'm a newbie with a soft trasom. It's been very helpfull to read past threads, thanks for participating in this site.
    I.m working on a' 84 21' Arrowglass and by what I'm finding this seems to be a light weight boat, stringers were just laid up onto the hull with 3-4" of fabric up the sides, not over the top of 3/4" boards. Every example I've seen has been foam or wood enclosed. so far I am planning to use marine ply ,it fits snug and epoxy it in.
    Transom is 1 3/4" with a plywood core, fitted with a I/O drive unit. It's soft for about a 8" tall X 14" area to starboard of the I/O cutout. But only 3/4" deep, two pieces of 3/4" ply apparently were sandwitched.
    Beyond this 3/4" depth and this oval area I find solid wood.
    I've gotten this far because I was investigating a piece of soft floor.
    I guess I've just needed to chat, I've just printed West System's Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintence guide as I have been typing so Ive got some studying to do.
    Any opinions on Arrowglass boats?
    Two months ago I told my wife " just two weekends and I'll be shaking her down". Well it's kept me out of the bars. Just kidding.
    How about some pictures. Several of us do this type of work.
    I myself would suggest the Fiberlay P-16 laminating resin for laying it up.
    For the most part, I will lay up 2.5" at least in the transom thickness.
    Helmar Joe Johanesen
    1959 Skagit 20ft Offshore, 1959 Skagit 16ft Skimaster,
    1961 17ft Dorsett Catalina.1958 Uniflite 17 ft
    Outboards: 2.5 Bearcats, 3 50hp White shadow Mercs
    2 40hp Johnsons, several smaller Old kickers for a total of 12

    Our Sister club
    http://www.goldenstateglassics.com

    Oh, and Where is Robin Hood when you need him??

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    • #3
      Paul,
      I have found a few hulls that needed only a small patch done to a somewhat intact transom.The small round rot job in the middle would be just fine as long as at some layer you thru bolt or screw from one side,AND stagger one layer a little bigger than the intitial plug.
      One layer? no sweat,Bevel the cut-out and fit accordingly.
      Screw it in place and let it set.
      Pull the screw and cover with glass after filling the holes and gaps with thickened resin.
      Use some Chop strand glass mingled between each layer,tearing it and leaving wild ends will actually help it blend and lay out.
      As each layer goes in leave a few wicks of glass around all seams and then cap it off with one pass of chop strand with a layer of Cloth on top.You can squeegie the resin thru the cloth without messing up the normally messy chop strand.
      Read about Thickeners and Adhesives,these are your friend!
      My Boatyard buddy said to only glass over the top if the stringers are rounded over with a router.......though I admit to glassing them fully whenever I can.
      An I/O usually has wider stringer for the engine ,say 30`` apart.They build up the boat pretty good to handle this gap but realize the motor was connecting both sides like a front wheel drive car.I`d be sure to connect the two motor mounts with something heavy and bolted even to the motor mounts.
      I`m assuming you are fixing to NOT put an Inboard back in and are going Outboard or?
      Sorry but my pics are too large to upload,will try to resize and get you a visual aid.
      TimM
      unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
      15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
      SeaRay 175BR
      Hi-Laker lapline
      14` Trailorboat

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      • #4
        Thanks for the replys

        I am just working on becoming digital, very soon I'll post some pictures.
        I am planning on resetting the I/O.
        Thanks again Paul

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