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Time to stir the Pot!
Started fabbing this up for a neighbor`s Bellboy project.The goal is to move the Short Mercury 60 hp back ,add a swimstep and create a kicker bracket all at once.
I will need to foam it and add some buoncy after getting the basic Motor mounting surfaces as they need to be.....it`s one thing to make it ,another to reach the bolts and nuts and not have to blast a deck access ring into it.
It will be removable if it doesn`t perform as hoped.This is all a "Black Art".
I`ll use Woven roving to form the sides with tabs going over each from left and right.Then I`ll squish those layers between the second layers of
3/4`` plywood (where the mounting bolts for transom and motor will be).Doorskin will be ground off as it is built,then woven applied around the shape from outside.Chop strand and Cloth will smooth and form the skin.
Top surface will have to be low enough for draining of well plug,clearing steering when tilted,and high enough for being above the waterline.
Motor will also end up being 16`` back ,and roughly 1.25`` higher than before.Don`t want to risk be too Tall as it may porpoise if it creates a "rocking chair" effect.Too low and we`ll raise the motor bolts accordingly.
Most new boat builders now use XLong models (on Bracket equipped hulls )over even the Longshafts for powerhead safety,this being short will sorta push the up/down envelope.
Moored Twins seems to always lose the lowest cylinders,usually after a dunking with powerhead pistons happening to be at the wrong place ,at the wrong time.Dunk it briefly while backing in at a steep ramp,in following seas with motor off (trolling), or when filled with rainwater while moored and then letting it sit could all lead to rings rusting in the lowest hole.Or turn it over with that water still inside and it will pop a piston.
Using channel Alum would be too easy......this will be labor intensive in glass/wood but totally built to fit this transom/Motor.I saw this very item built on many of the Wooldrige DeepWater series (now the Offshore line) that I once outfitted.I tried hard not to copy their`s(One is sitting across the street from where this is taking place,want to know how many times I almost walked over for a peek?) Didn`t do it.....
Still, it came out similar however,sorta like houses and Pick-up trucks.
Side-note:Funny that their cabin hull layout is more like a Seafair Sedan than the Arima they claimed it was designed to mimick.The $60 "Luxory Tax" created to collect King County revenue also led to the bracket equipped 15` 11`` hulls.
Had they copied the bottom,I`d have bought that model over my SAFE boat.....
Any ideas,knowledge or thoughts to share would be nice to hear,I know this Bracket will work for other boats too......flatter transoms will obviously make it easier and the conversion from I/O just means the front panel has to be true Vertical.
TimM
Started fabbing this up for a neighbor`s Bellboy project.The goal is to move the Short Mercury 60 hp back ,add a swimstep and create a kicker bracket all at once.
I will need to foam it and add some buoncy after getting the basic Motor mounting surfaces as they need to be.....it`s one thing to make it ,another to reach the bolts and nuts and not have to blast a deck access ring into it.
It will be removable if it doesn`t perform as hoped.This is all a "Black Art".
I`ll use Woven roving to form the sides with tabs going over each from left and right.Then I`ll squish those layers between the second layers of
3/4`` plywood (where the mounting bolts for transom and motor will be).Doorskin will be ground off as it is built,then woven applied around the shape from outside.Chop strand and Cloth will smooth and form the skin.
Top surface will have to be low enough for draining of well plug,clearing steering when tilted,and high enough for being above the waterline.
Motor will also end up being 16`` back ,and roughly 1.25`` higher than before.Don`t want to risk be too Tall as it may porpoise if it creates a "rocking chair" effect.Too low and we`ll raise the motor bolts accordingly.
Most new boat builders now use XLong models (on Bracket equipped hulls )over even the Longshafts for powerhead safety,this being short will sorta push the up/down envelope.
Moored Twins seems to always lose the lowest cylinders,usually after a dunking with powerhead pistons happening to be at the wrong place ,at the wrong time.Dunk it briefly while backing in at a steep ramp,in following seas with motor off (trolling), or when filled with rainwater while moored and then letting it sit could all lead to rings rusting in the lowest hole.Or turn it over with that water still inside and it will pop a piston.
Using channel Alum would be too easy......this will be labor intensive in glass/wood but totally built to fit this transom/Motor.I saw this very item built on many of the Wooldrige DeepWater series (now the Offshore line) that I once outfitted.I tried hard not to copy their`s(One is sitting across the street from where this is taking place,want to know how many times I almost walked over for a peek?) Didn`t do it.....
Still, it came out similar however,sorta like houses and Pick-up trucks.
Side-note:Funny that their cabin hull layout is more like a Seafair Sedan than the Arima they claimed it was designed to mimick.The $60 "Luxory Tax" created to collect King County revenue also led to the bracket equipped 15` 11`` hulls.
Had they copied the bottom,I`d have bought that model over my SAFE boat.....
Any ideas,knowledge or thoughts to share would be nice to hear,I know this Bracket will work for other boats too......flatter transoms will obviously make it easier and the conversion from I/O just means the front panel has to be true Vertical.
TimM
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