Cabin window replacement

[Nomad55]

One of the 1st things on the to do list on the Skagit 20 is to remove,replace, and reseal the cabin windows. So I am looking for any advice, encouragement on the chore ahead. I suspect that a majority of the screws that secure the window trim will break off and would be interested in how others have dealt with it, drill them out? They are very small.

Melanie

[Lootas1]

Well, Melanie, I dealth with leaky cabin windows the way I deal with most difficult jobs -- I let them leak. Guess that's why no one ever offered me a job as a boat restorer!

[westerner]

Melanie-
My Westerner came with side sliding windows that leaked like a sieve. Drove me nuts especially when in the cabin overnighting, like a leaky tent. Fortunately the small screws were stainless secured by a stainless nut on the interior. After removing all the screws from the frame, a very slow process, I cleaned up the aluminum frame and packed a bead of RV putty around the fiberglass which expanded upon tightening. Tightened them up like I would put on a tire, then trimmed off the excess putty. Did this to other leaking places also(lightpole etc.) and it was worth every hour necessary.

Not sure how your boat is set up but if the screws were just set in the fiberglass I would have had no problem drilling them out and either retapping them or, if you have access to the other side, putting on longer screws with a nut.

My point being it's worth whatever is necessary, at least to me. I'm just a backyard boat hobbiest but it worked great, tight as a drum..

[Marty Loken (Norseboater)]

Cabin Windows

Melanie -

You're right...many of the tiny machine screws holding the aluminum window frames together will likely break off, but just go ahead and break 'em. You'll end up drilling the broken ones out--ideally on a drill press where you have more control--and tapping new threads for the next-larger size machine screw. (Might as well do all of them while you're at it, so you have nothing but new stainless screws and fresh threads everywhere.)

Since you've restored a lot of old cars, you're be familiar with the various window-gasket goops to use in bedding the new plexiglass. Assuming you're able to get all of the old plexiglass panels out intact, you can use them to make paper patterns for the new acrylic, tracing each of the wraparound windows on the inside face, then transferring to flat panels that you cut with a fine-tooth sabresaw blade.

The aluminum window frames look nice, but personally, if the Skagit was my boat I'd consider forsaking the metal and going with black rubber window gaskets, simply because getting old aluminum window frames to completely stop leaking is a challenge. (You'll probably find that the Skagit window openings are not exactly perfect or consistent in shape, and that some of the frames fit better than others--especially after you've cut, bent and repositioned the new windows. Rubber window gaskets are a lot more forgiving, easier to install, and provide a better weatherseal than aluminum...but you may strongly prefer the appearance of aluminum trim.

Of course, if you remove the old aluminum frames and want to reuse them, you'll probably also want to restore the frames since the original anodizing is probably scratched or otherwise compromised with blemishes at this point. You'll need to use fine sandpaper and then increasingly fine buffing compounds in order to remove what's left of the anodizing layer, and then buff the aluminum to a chrome-like finish. In order to retain the bright finish you'll want to clearcoat the polished frames with mag-wheel spray to keep them from immediately getting dull.

Finally, if you want to have the whole messy process over with quickly and efficiently--and you're willing to go with rubber--just warm up your checkbook and drag the boat to Associated Auto Glass in Lynnwood. They can cut, bend and fit all of the cabin windows in a few days using rubber gaskets, but the cost will likely be in the $700-$900 range. (Don't quote me--it's been several years since I've used them. Chuck Carey has more recent experience with Associated, so you might get in touch with him for details.)

Good luck,

- Marty

[Nomad55]

@ Jerry, like kent we do a fair amount of overnight camping trips so getting the cabin as weather tight as possible is the goal.

@ Kent, the Skagit window frames are fastened from the inside with no exposed fastenings on the outside frames as shown in the photo you attrached.

@ Marty, thanks for anticipating what would have certainly been my next question, the fabrication of the plexiglass windows. How about the use of Lexan rather than using plexiglass? I've had some experience using Lexan in a few drag cars we've built and it is a little stronger and easier to clean without scratching. I am also considering looking into powder coating the outer frames.

[Lootas1]

If you're not sleeping in a wet sleeping bag and shivering in the cold winds, how do you know your camping?

[Marty Loken (Norseboater)]

Lexan

Melanie -

Yes, use Lexan if possible. If you get just the right thickness (maybe 3/16"), you should be able to bend it into the frames cold....whereas you absolutely would have to heat plexiglass (acrylic). (I'd try bending various thicknesses of Lexan at the store before buying a whole sheet of the stuff, since it's obviously more expensive than plex.)

We'll be going through the same exercise in two weeks with an upper cabin windshield--bending Lexan cold. I'll let you know which thickness we ended up using, and how it goes. (And maybe you can do the same thing if you tackle your project first.)

Powder coating the restored aluminum frames would be the best approach--more durable than spraying mag-wheel clearcoat. (Would like to know where you have that done--or if you do it yourself...)

- Marty

[Steve_Kiesel]

For the mag wheel coating, try using Shark Hide. I used it on my Seafair Sedan about twelve months ago. The metal still looks like new. Granted I haven't been out that much, and only on fresh water. But so far the results have been better than the previous product I used. (Don't remember what the previous product was)

[Tim_Mattson]

Melanie,
Tough job but you`ll get to choose how it will look when done.
The Alum doesn`t hold very well when powdery so a mild etching treatment before sending to a powder coater would make their work stick better.
I do Sharkhyde treatments at an Alum Boat factory as they hate to spend time prepping when they could sell a new hull instead (which takes 1/3 rd the time overall.....).
If you want the alum to shine,then it takes etching,re-establishing the "Grain" with 80-100 grit,then working up to 180-220 G.Scotchbrite will blend it all once done sanding.
A Diaper with Lacquer Thinner is needed before polishing or clearcoating with the Sharkhyde ,which is liquid Lacquer you either spray or wipe on.Keep cleaning until no more Black shows on the rag,then use a clean final rag to make sure.
Takes two coats of Clear so you don`t miss or have shadows as you wipe from one direction or the other.Reversing the direction of wiping gets it even.
I call this stuff "Poor Man`s Anodizing" as it isn`t forever....but is pretty durable vs paint.Prep it wrong and it peels like skin.
Self-etching Primer/Sealer is a good base coating if you want to simply paint it up......Rustoleum "Multi-Surface Paint" seems to cover when you have some anodizing still hanging on.
If pitted and salted,then be up front with the powder coater as they sometimes will not touch salted pcs as they know it may lift.....as it is a coating and not a paint.
I`ll add more on bedding choices......
Acrylic is way stronger but only gives you one chance to bend......Price does usually answer the question here.
Tim M