Introduction - Self & Project

[BrianVic]

New member – from Bainbridge Island

I have a 1972 Fiberform Columbia, 16’ O/B. Yes, I know it isn’t classic, rare, well build, snazzy, etc. People have trouble giving them away on C-list, which is how I acquired this one. It spent most of its life inside the Pt. Defiance boathouse in Tacoma, then the owner became ill, and did “tarp-wrap” in the back yard for 10+ years. Not a single scratch in the keel, never been beached, original everything, upholstery in perfect condition. It was bobbing on C-list for several months, but located distant from me. Finally had business to do near the boat location… well, you know what happened. I simply couldn’t resist. Like the ad said, “Nice trailer.”

I decided to replace the all vinyl interior (Nautolex or equiv.). It was falling out, so fifteen minutes later – stripped!!

Gasp!!! Floor/deck is in great shape, but obviously damp below the fiberglass matte over plywood, so after a late morning cup of java, my son and I began restoration (de-construction). There are only five main wood components; two 2” x 3” stringers, transom, and side stiffeners. The transom and stringers were soaking wet, so cut it all out we did. Deck off and wood stripped, poured foam removed in about 5 hours; no grinding yet (see photo).

I’m going to raise the transom from 15” to 20,” already started on it. I don’t think a more simply constructed runabout exists. There are only five wood components; transom, two stringers, and box stiffners along the chine.

Anyway, I’ll post some progress updates for your entertainment and critical review. Included is the “Columbia” page from the 1972 Fiberform sales brochure.

Not a classic, but has a 1960’s look – my wife loves it!

Brian Vickers

[Lootas1]

Heck fire Brian. If that ain't a classic, we have a whole classic boat club full of unclassic boats. You would be surprised to learn what is classic to us. Once had a 24 foot Fiberform Alaskan that, if I still had it, I'd call it a classic. Looks like you are taking on a good job. Keep up the good work and welcome to our club.
Jerry

[Helmar]

Looks Classic to me.:cool1:

[GregJ]

Brian, If that ain't a classic I don't know what is. Welcome to the club. It looks like your doing a real number on that boat. It will really be worth it in the end.

[BrianVic]

Stringers (?)

I spent most of yesterday grinding away the old stringer tabbing, and am trying to figure out the new subfloor structure. The OEM had two 2” x 3” suspended off the hull with the fiberglass tabbing, ˝” plywood deck, poured foam. I wasn’t planning to use poured foam, but it does serve a valuable purpose. Now pondering going to four stringers. Even spacing would put them approximately at each molded strake (term?). Lots of work to get all four stringers level if they all contact the floor. Aother option would be to use two main stringers placed where the old ones were, and then glassed over stiffners in between. Seems like a few bulkheads, one at each plywood joint (3 joints) might be in order too (?). Or, use poured foam again (?). I can see the value of poured foam because it does provide twisting rigidity, floor support, and hull stiffness. It's a labor saver too. The floor width at the widest point (transom) is 58 inches. Head scratching going on – ideas and advice welcome.

Thanks for reading

Brian

[Helmar]

With the amount of stringers, I would say it looks like they may have been using the foam as structure.

Some don't care for the foaming as some boats might roll over and do a bottoms up, but at least you have a floater and its not stuck in the mud on the bottom.

Myself, its the only way to go as it does too many Good things.opcorn1:

[BrianVic]

Foam it will be

Thanks Helmar,
I must admit that my lack of experience with poured foam is tainting the decision process. I have decided to go with two stringers and poured foam. As you say, the benefits are many. Thanks again

Brian Vickers

[Helmar]

Mixing the foam is a surprisingly simple process.. A and B, mix 50/50 and I prefer the Fiberlay brand myself.

Getting the vent holes so you don't blow the deck out is the hardest part.
I use about 2 and 1/4inch holes about 16 inches apart, jack the bow Way up as so the foam will flow towards the rear.
Just pour some sample pours and you will figure it out really fast.

[TheBronze]

Welcome to the board! You'll love it here. Your Fiberform looks fantastic. Really clean hull and deck. Good on you!

I'd replace those edge braces unless they are truely dry. They are wood, and if your floor was soaked, they will be too, or were once. They look simple enough anyway.

As for the pour foam, I have been using the stuff from US Composites. Internet order, but much cheaper than buying locally. I wouldn't worry too much about capsizing with pour foam either. The bouyancy is slightly less than air, so you shouldn't have any issues. Plus, if you use closed cell, you don't have to worry about sinking as much.

One more thing that I just thought of. I'm in Poulsbo, so if you need some eyes or a helping hand, don't hesitate to ask.

[BrianVic]

Windshield frame fittings

Good morning,
My boat is simple, and relatively new (1972) so most (all) of the hardware is still in production. No need to restore, just buy new.

The chromed pot metal fitting that secures the intersection of the two windshield frames is pitted, but still solid. Glen at Specialty Plating in Vancouver is not confident that he can re-chrome them based on the photos I emailed. I learned that pot metal is a wild card for plating vendors. The rest of the boat is going to be like new, so I am assessing options.

Polish them the best I can and live with it? I have some bright silver PPG Concept paint left over from another project, so maybe resurface, prime/paint, and go that route? I have looked on the Internet for new parts without success.

No need to be gentle with your comments, but what would you do.

Thanks a bunch for reading.

Brian

[TheBronze]

You can polish it if you like, but the end result will be shiny chrome in and around all the pits. If you are going for the best look, I'd go with a prime and paint. You can put some nice silver on there and then clear coat it. Should look nice.

[BrianVic]

Progress report

Just finished spray painting the deck - on the way to using the boat this summer!!! Actually did the big shoot on Sunday, but ran out of catalyst, and had to do the final section tonight. I like to spray paint, but it takes me a little while to get the hang, and a few sags and runs result; not perfect. There is going to be some cut and buff work to do. I learned that it helps to be on the side of slightly too much air pressure in order to reduce the paint dot size (HVLP). A very slight amount gets into the air, but smaller paint drops (dots) result in thinner coats, less sag. Two hardware store fans at the bottom of the garage door opening kept the air flowing low, so the airborne paint settled down; somewhat effective anyway. I also noticed that one or two PSI difference in air pressure does matter.

The plan is to suspend the deck from the ceiling via pulleys, so I can bring in the hull and start on the transom, stringers and floor. Ten foot ceiling height, so hopefully I can do it. No other place to put the deck inside while working on the hull build-up. Just put all that work in it, no way I’m going to store the deck outside, if possible.

I really enjoy fiberglass boat restoration, and will be indulging in the hobby again soon. Gaining some skills for sure.

Thanks for reading

Brian Vickers

Nice looking paint job Brian. You are making good progress. A fine place to work.