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Idle Hands are the Devils Tools...

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  • Idle Hands are the Devils Tools...

    It’s been a quiet winter for me on the forum. But don't let that fool you! I've been diligently working away on boat projects. The most recent is a floor repair on the ‘61 Marathon, Jammie Dodger. The boat came with a so-so floor and I've been boating with it the last two seasons. This year, however, I intend to sell her in the Fall to help fund engines for the Bell Boy project. With that in mind, it was important to me to fix the floor up so I could sell it in good conscience (not to mention to have a solid platform for this seasons crabbing, cruising and fishing [the 3 C’s]). The issue was that the previous owner had attempted to repair a bad section of floor but really didn’t do a good job. As a result, the floor was lifting in some places and cracked through to the bilge in others. Not an ideal situation. I had tried a re-glassing of the cracked area last spring but it didn’t last the summer.

    So, with trusty tools in hand, I stuffed her in the garage and me and a friend pulled the engine about a month ago. This was a required element because the bilge drain was seized in there and I wanted access to the entire floor so I could remove the old fitting and replace. My plan was to pull up the floor and replace about half of the floor. From the rear seats forward the floor is in great shape and shows no sign of weakness so there was no intent to replace that. Also, that would have required lifting the deck off, which I don’t relish doing on that boat due to her ‘classic’ interior layup.

    Off went the engine, off went the splashwell. Off went my plans. ? First thing noticed was a good deal of rotten wood on the transom. Not the whole thing, mind you, but about half the way down. It is the original transom and even with the rot was still pretty strong. However, someone at some point installed a kicker bracket but didn’t seal anything, so water got in through that space and did its best. So for the first 2-3 weeks of the project, I was chipping out old wood down to dry, solid areas. Again, the deck removal was not something I wanted to do, so a complete replacement was not on the list. However, 3 layers of overlapping ½ inch birch later, and the transom is more solid than it was when I started. The attached pics are 1 of the 3 layers of ply that was resined in.
    Attached Files
    John Forsythe

    '59 Bellboy 404 - Pretty Girl
    Past Affairs:
    '61 Marathon - Jammie Dodger

  • #2
    Next it was on to the floor. Last weekend I pulled the bad sections of the floor up. Interesting construction for sure. There are wood stringers in there and they were VERY dry. No rot. The interesting part is that the stringers were insulated with a nice tall layup of fiberglass to keep the water off. BUT, they weren’t glassed all the way up. Go figure. On top, they used chopped strand mat to tie the stringers to the floor. No screws of any kind. No wonder it eventually lifted…

    During the week, I removed and replaced the bilge drain, and got all the extra glass ground down on the hull.

    On Friday, the first stage of re-construction started: Foam! There was no flotation in the hull when I took it up. Nothing at all…. No wonder it was such a noisy ride! I drilled a core in the starboard side floor by the forward seats. And the pouring began. I’ve never worked with pour foam before, so it was fun to learn how it behaves. Not wanting to minimize my expansion, I kept the garage to a ncie 75 degrees and put the foam in front of a space heater to keep it nice and warm. Worked a charm! After a few rough starts, we finally got that ridiculous bulging bow filled on the one side. Then it was on to the port side on Saturday. A single pour did that one. I have to say, it is great to work with but really expensive. I went through about ¾ of my 2 gallon kit. Ouch. At $80 or so a kit with shipping that wasn’t cheap. So, I decided to use Styrofoam in the aft sections and will be filling in the gap with pour foam. This will give me the insulation and floatation I want, but not cost quite so much.
    Attached Files
    John Forsythe

    '59 Bellboy 404 - Pretty Girl
    Past Affairs:
    '61 Marathon - Jammie Dodger

    Comment


    • #3
      Sunday it was time to put the floor back in. In order to eliminate flex between the joints I had to cut in a cross brace and attach it to the existing floor. With that out of the way, I used the tried and true cardboard cutout method to make a template for the floor. I cut more birch and got it fitted. I decided to use some of that old construction technique for the install. I resined up the stringers and laid a layer of 8 ounce cloth on each of them. Also, To help seal up the edges, I laid up an inch of cloth where the floor meets the hull. With that in place, I put the floor in and then used 4 inch tape to seal the edges up. Everything fits fantastically! Tonight I’ll be finishing the foam pour and then put the heavy duty mat on for the floor and also the transom.

      I should be hanging the engine by midweek and ready for the season by the weekend. Then its on to some home improvement projects. Gotta get those out of the way or the bell boy will never get done!
      Attached Files
      John Forsythe

      '59 Bellboy 404 - Pretty Girl
      Past Affairs:
      '61 Marathon - Jammie Dodger

      Comment


      • #4
        Overall I'm pleased with the project. Some new life has been injected in that old gal over the last few years and I've learned enough to tackle the bell boy with confidence. I'll post the finishing pictures up in the next few days.

        One item remains that I need some help with though. Does anyone have the flanging tool for the through hull drains that these old classics use? I have the fitting, a 1 inch tube, but no one around here has the tool to properly flange it. I can order one on line, but its a spendy tool for this one application and twice more on the bell boy.
        John Forsythe

        '59 Bellboy 404 - Pretty Girl
        Past Affairs:
        '61 Marathon - Jammie Dodger

        Comment


        • #5
          John,
          While it doesn`t work every time,I`ve had luck using Ball peen hammers and a larger sledge as a backer.I usually dry fit and file down so the tube just barely pokes out the outside.The smaller ball peen will be needed first to gently work a flare into the outer lip.As it flares all the way around,a bigger ball peen can be smacked so it evens out any smaller divits.Once a flare is started,a simple 3`` Bolt with large plates or washers and a nut can be tightened up like the fancy tool does.......
          Some plumbing "bell"reducers could be used in lieu of the special tool,you just have to file away the ridge so it mashes the tubing smoothly.
          If too long,even with the tool the tube may split....so get an extra tube or two.
          TimM
          unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
          15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
          SeaRay 175BR
          Hi-Laker lapline
          14` Trailorboat

          Comment


          • #6
            Tim,

            Good tip. I may give that a go. Not sure if I'll have the clearance to get the hammer in there and make any strokes though. The splashwell is angled down pretty steep where the fitting sits. But it should be a good excuse to buy a new hammer...

            So the floor is attached and the foam has been poured in to fill the voids. It is tight as a drum. I had a mishap on the stbd side with too much resin though. I mixed about 4 ounces too much and ended up with around 5 quarts of extra coming out my pour hole. No worries though, I'll just use it on the bell boy to fill voids when that time comes.

            Last night I laid up the transom with the 1708 biaxial mat. Man, that stuff is heavy duty for sure. Took quite a bit of resin to properly wet it out, but it looks fantastic. I ran the glass until about 4 inches from the top of the transom. The heavy mat is probably overkill, as the original had nothing on there but 6 ounce cloth as a water barrier. I finished covering the upper section with 8 ounce cloth and ran a bead of resin on the top of the transom. Should be sufficient to keep the water away.

            Tonight it is on to laying up the floor. I'm about a day behind my projected schedule, but I should still have her on the water this weekend.

            I want to take some space here to thank my wife for putting up with me and also mention my son, Josh, who has been really involved in this project. He is 11, and thinks all this stuff is pretty cool. Future classic lover!
            John Forsythe

            '59 Bellboy 404 - Pretty Girl
            Past Affairs:
            '61 Marathon - Jammie Dodger

            Comment


            • #7
              John ,
              I usually put the pre-made flange on the hard to hit side,I may have stated outside........though the splashwell angle is usually why you end up with the hole higher than the lowest edge.If your old holes were left intact and set in stone,then that tool may be needed if you can`t feed the hole thru from splashwell side.You can sorta spin it why peening downwards,once started it may work with big bolt and larger washers or plates made from Alum stock and filed so it doesn`t mark new paint.Taping it off helps too,lets things slide as you tighten or peen.
              I do remember some hulls I saw the well angle being an issue so I assembled it around the new plug.
              TimM
              unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
              15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
              SeaRay 175BR
              Hi-Laker lapline
              14` Trailorboat

              Comment


              • #8
                Ya, I figured the flanged end should go on the inside. I don't have new paint, still rockin the original gelcoat. I may be able to finagle it into place though by inserting it into the splashwell ahead of assembly and then lining it up with the hole. I'm not even sure if I bought the tool that it would fit now that I think about it.

                If nothing else, I can stick it in the other way around and just seal it.
                John Forsythe

                '59 Bellboy 404 - Pretty Girl
                Past Affairs:
                '61 Marathon - Jammie Dodger

                Comment

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