Mixing Resin Questions

[pdxnative]

Hi all, I'm getting ready to tape & resin the seams on a plywood boat I've been slowly building. And would like to hear any advice on mixing, wetting the cloth (4" & 6" to start on seams). What I'm working with is some (2.5 gal) of Evercoat's Boat Yard Resin.
So, what do you suggest for a guy that has no idea about mixing & laying up 'glass?

[bham-rick]

Just like sheet rock ??

Get on U-tube or goggle some videos. Mix up some small batches of resin and test how long it takes to kick . I found it's better to add a little extra hardener than not have enough. Just mix small batches at a time till you get the feel for it. Start on some scrap wood and just do a couple small test strips Soak it good and roll out any bubbles . When I say its like sheet rock I mean the better you are at it the less finish work you will have to do in the end! Log onto Fiberglassics and they have some good information over there? Good luck -it makes a mess and my wife can't stand the smell

[Helmar]

What I have found works best for me it to wet the surface, lay down the fiberglass tape and brush evenly with the resin.
I like to use the cloth on heavy traffic areas.

Depending on the corners I would use one say 4" tape, then a 2 or 3" tape right on the seam.

Main thing is to make sure the surfaces are clean and dry.

I also like using the Fiberlay with the hardner And Surface sealer. Never fails for me.

[pdxnative]

I'm starting with 6" then planning on a layer of 4". That should be enough to deal with 3/8" ply. Just wondering the best way to mix. Then do I wet the cloth, or brush on a heavy layer, press the cloth in, & brush again?

[Helmar]

I'm starting with 6" then planning on a layer of 4". That should be enough to deal with 3/8" ply. Just wondering the best way to mix. Then do I wet the cloth, or brush on a heavy layer, press the cloth in, & brush again?

One of the hard parts is figuring out, How much do I need??
Might do a couple of smaller pots until you get used to the amount required to cover your project.

Mix it like the manufacture suggests and if you think you will need a little more time, less hardener.

I wet the surface, lay the tape, wet the tape, then lay the next layer of tape down and wet it. You will see by Dabbing your chip brush on the tape and not so much brushing as it will move around on you.

And yes, with a run of 6" glass tape and then 4" on top of that, it will be plenty strong..

Just my :TwoCents1:, Anyone else?

[Tim_Mattson]

Ok I`ll bite ,
Here`s some more ideas and what works for me.
I use 4-6 oz. or up to 12 0z (like a small Beer)at a time with resin.The color and smell usually tells you something is going on.You can do a few test batches until you get it to kick within 8-12 minutes.Sun and heat will make it go quick ,even your hand so be aware and realize you can cool it with cold or even icewater to slow it down.Once gelling it will harden within minutes so try to get it right.
We were using I think 5-10 CC hardener in 12 oz cups so go a 1/4 th of that and work up.
I use Chop strand under cloth for a good seam that will hold.I tear it and put small square tuffs with as few as possible edges cut with scissors.I wet the seam,wet again +plop strand on the area and dab dollups of resin with a small chip brush on each one.Wait a minute and then spread them so the strands start to lay flat.The cloth can go right on unless it kicks and you get chunks forming.The chop is probably overkill btw,and gets messy it you don`t use some finesse.
I use the 4 inch under the 6 so each layers grows an inch.Guess I learned it backwards,it just looks cleaner to me.
Once strand is wetted I roll out the tape and squeegie with flexible spreader thru the tape starting in the middle.Work it until all the white is gone and then wait for bubbles that may try to form.Let it get tacky before doing a final dab-down and it will stay as you left it.
Cut and ready all materials ahead of time so it`s ready to deploy as needed.Use 2-3 cups and have a row of resin batches lined up,same on the Cat.
Final tip ,layers of gloves.I start with 2-3 latex over Nitrile,then I use latex as peelaway layers when things get sticky.
Acetone wipe before any resin is applied,and do it twice to be sure or until the rag comes off clean.
Gotto go slog some myself......2 Glasplys in 2 days.
TimM

Good advice above. I would add, remember the larger the batch you mix the faster it will start to gell. Over catalyzing can work with smaller batches, but I would avoid adding much catalyst to a large batch that remains in the cup for a while. If you find you need to mix large, it needs to get spread out into a thin layer quickly and not remain in the cup longer than you can help it.

If you know that you want to put a second layer on after the resin cures, don't use surfacing resin (with wax) use laminating resin. Same resin, but no liquid wax in it for the surface cure. Using laminating resin means that the outer surface will remain tacky, so the next layer will adhere well. You can use surfacing resin for the final layer so that it will cure completely. Having fully cured resin is pretty important if you plan on sanding it smooth!

[pdxnative]

Thanks to all of you for your info & insights. Tried mixing up a couple of small test batches this evening, turns out that having the doors open aren't enough for the fumes, had to step outside quick. Also found that I should run short of the "recommended" hardener/pot time. 0.5 ml can make all the difference.
Will post pics later.
Tim, thanks for the tip on the layered gloves, went through 2 layers in 10 minutes.
Now to wait & see how the tests came out. Next step the wood.
BTW, If anyone is interested, the plans came from http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/

A large old box fan, strategically positioned, can be very welcome to chase the chlorine and styrene vapors that are produced when the resin is catalyzed, irritating the mucous membranes. (Stinky!)

[Helmar]

Thanks to all of you for your info & insights. Tried mixing up a couple of small test batches this evening, turns out that having the doors open aren't enough for the fumes, had to step outside quick. Also found that I should run short of the "recommended" hardener/pot time. 0.5 ml can make all the difference.
Will post pics later.
Tim, thanks for the tip on the layered gloves, went through 2 layers in 10 minutes.
Now to wait & see how the tests came out. Next step the wood.
BTW, If anyone is interested, the plans came from http://koti.kapsi.fi/hvartial/

What brand name of Resin are you using ??
Stay away from that West Marine brand as it kicks Way too fast.
Lots of others but I use Fiberlay myself, fact, P16 with the Merk and surface seal. Found it works best for me, not too stinky and sure don't remember having to double up on gloves.

[rjparksjr]

I would recomend a good respirator. Once you get use to using one, you wonder why you put it off for so long. Just something to consider....

Kindest Regards,

Bob

[Tim McCrain]

I would recomend a good respirator. Once you get use to using one, you wonder why you put it off for so long. Just something to consider....

Kindest Regards,

Bob

I second that recommendation. Of course, if you don't use a respirator, after a while you stop wondering about anything ... :shocked3:

[Lootas1]

That explains it all! Guess I should quit saying only wimps wear respirators.

[Tim McCrain]

Long ago and far away ...

Many years ago I worked in a shop that sold hardwoods and tools, including flooring and swedish floor finish. An "older guy" that had been using swedish finish for a lot of years was in one day buying finish and I asked him if he wore a respirator when he used it. After a pause he just shook his head no. I said "Doesn't this stuff get to you?" He stared at me for a good ten seconds while his brain worked out what I was saying, then he said "No." Then he turned and walked straight into a post.

Since then I always wear a respirator.

[Lootas1]

Love it!!!