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  • Rub Rail Question

    For all of you BellBoy owners out there, here is a question: I am planning to unscrew and remove entirely, the aluminum rub rail assembly off the BB. I want to polish the aluminum but also mask and trim the deck / hull seam with Interlux perfection oyster white (which I should have done the first time) to make a perfect look when reattached. Can I remove the rub rail without disturbing the seam and alignment of the deck and hull? I mean, there must be more than the rub rail assembly adhering the two halves together, right?

    Thanks,
    Bob

  • #2
    Asbestos warning

    Bob,
    You`ll find there are a few basic screws at the nose ,where the cabin windows meet at corners,maybe again halfway down hull near steering pulleys bolts which also is thru this seam.
    The hull will move if you hacksaw the hidden screws or if they are spaced well away from each other.You do have to clean the gap so may as well break it all free and go to town.
    You`ll see some white material filling gaps and sandwhiched between the layers.
    Looked like Asbestos! Not positive but better to be safe.

    I needed a probe to line up the holes,then pumped the gap full of Sikaflex LOT-291 Black and to surround all fittings.
    I taped off the paint twice so I had one to pull before acetone clean-up.2 nd tape was pulled to reveal a crisp line after a half day and it was tacky.
    If dried ,you have to cut the tape free.
    I pulled the pre-warmed rubrail from each rear tie-down loop criss-crossing at motor.Once taught I drilled and bolted from nose and worked along both sides.
    Felt like Brear Rabbit while glopping and trying to Nut/Bolt this snake.
    TM
    unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
    15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
    SeaRay 175BR
    Hi-Laker lapline
    14` Trailorboat

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    • #3
      Originally posted by BellBoyBob, post: 25501
      For all of you BellBoy owners out there, here is a question: I am planning to unscrew and remove entirely, the aluminum rub rail assembly off the BB. I want to polish the aluminum but also mask and trim the deck / hull seam with Interlux perfection oyster white (which I should have done the first time) to make a perfect look when reattached. Can I remove the rub rail without disturbing the seam and alignment of the deck and hull? I mean, there must be more than the rub rail assembly adhering the two halves together, right?

      Thanks,
      Bob
      Well I chickened out with rubrail.
      [ATTACH]14520.vB[/ATTACH]

      [ATTACH]14521.vB[/ATTACH]

      I put it all back together and bought just the rubrail new.
      Attached Files
      John & Diane Kelly

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      • #4
        John, Your stbd corner looks like hamburger!

        Bob,

        Take it off. It is a lot of work but as long as you haven't separated the deck from the hull, it will mostly stay in place. The main bulkhead, the 1/8 bulkheads abaft, the bulkhead at the front of the splashwell and the aft section of the splashwell are all working to keep the hull rigid on that boat and will keep it from moving. The rub rail also plays a big part, but for shop work the integrity of the package will be fine.

        What you will need to do though is have some plywood or 1x4 planks ready to insert between the hull and the forward deck. Because there aren't any bulkheads up top, the bow will want to dip into the hull from about the cabin windows forward.

        Oh, and be prepared to have to scrape a bunch, and I mean a bunch. The rail on the '59 was sealed with some sort of black fibered tar. A real pain to clean off of the rail. You may be better served to just leave that on and clean it up off of the hull. A screwdriver at the right angle and about 2 hours should have it all tidied up on the deck and hull. I used 5200 when I put the whole thing back together. Plan on about 2-3 10oz tubes.

        For re-assembly, go out to your local Do-It-Best and buy a box of new (stainless) screws, washers, and nylox nuts. You will find when you take it apart that a lot of your screws will be bent, or will just break off instead of un-screwing. New hardware will make your life a little easier when you put it back together. I tried to source aluminum screws but couldn't find anything locally that was the right size. And you'll need a helper on the outside as well...

        Last piece of advice... MARK YOUR RAILS BEFORE YOU REMOVE THEM! It is easy to confuse which rail whent on which side and in which direction. You'll have to take the rubber insert out before you remove the aluminum. Mark port and starboard, fore and aft BEFORE you remove ONE screw.

        Good luck!
        John Forsythe

        '59 Bellboy 404 - Pretty Girl
        Past Affairs:
        '61 Marathon - Jammie Dodger

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