Dorsett Farallon Restoration Project/The Beginning

[Skagit Hideaway]

Nice work Helmar! Boy, the Farallon's deeper V in the bow sure makes for a lot of wood in the stringers. How much did the boat weigh?

[timgoodwin]

That is the exact same model as mine. What a beauty. Same color as mine use to be (and will be again) and everything. WOW! You did a great job. Very impressive on that work. Is everything in there original like the fridge and sink and so forth? Did you also redo all of the electricals and plumbing? Does it have an on board fresh water tank with pump? Lots of questions I know but I just got so excited when I saw her.

[Helmar]

That is the exact same model as mine. What a beauty. Same color as mine use to be (and will be again) and everything. WOW! You did a great job. Very impressive on that work. Is everything in there original like the fridge and sink and so forth? Did you also redo all of the electricals and plumbing? Does it have an on board fresh water tank with pump? Lots of questions I know but I just got so excited when I saw her.

I know all of it was done on Chucks boat but Allan and Sue's, all the wiring was not replaced, just most of it.
I can't remember if we pulled the pump crapper out of Allan and Sue's but if we did, we plugged the hole.
I think I remember putting in a new pump and plumbing that is under the first step as you enter the cabin.

Allan and Sue's boat was pretty much all original if I remember right.
I just subbed in on that job as it was Wil and Marty that was on most of the completion of it.

You should be able to PM (Privet Message) the username of Chelan. Look up his posts

[Helmar]

Nice work Helmar! Boy, the Farallon's deeper V in the bow sure makes for a lot of wood in the stringers. How much did the boat weigh?

I don't think we got a weight on her so really don't know..

[timgoodwin]

Got a problem with getting her onto blocks or something other than the trailer. The hull has dents where she sat to long and also I need to get to the trailer but I don't know how to get her off of the trailer by myself or even what to build to put her on. Should I just jack her up and lower her on to blocks and where should I position the blocks for this particular boat? Don't want to put to much pressure in a soft area.

[timgoodwin]

What is meant by foam under the floor boards?

Looks pretty complete. Hardest part will be replacing the windshield. Get the measurements were she wraps around form side to side and post them.
That boat was designed down in the San Francisco bay area and for the constant Chop on that water so you will be hard pressed to find Any classic that will give you a better ride. (I have the Dorsett Catalina, then the next one up is the Dorsett San Juan, then the Farallon)
Lots of cabin space on those. I see the bunk dowels laying on the rear deck for the smaller bunks above the seats.

So, allot has to do with the big first question. Are you going to keep this boat? Unsure, then might not go nuts using foam under the floor boards.
Just replace the wood as I see you have all your patterns available to copy from. That Merc will move her around just fine.

Right when you enter the cabin, which is the lowest point when she is setting in water, is 18" from the floor to the hull.
Those that I had seen all had MDO plywood (same stuff Stop signs used to me made from) stringers and no opening back under the floor.
The bilge pump was just under the first step going into the cabin.
If the stringers are fine, some folks foam the bilge area with a good closed cell foam (I tend to always rely on Fiberlays foam myself)

I myself will drill into the transom in several places with a tarp under catching what comes out, black and hard, still have some years left, black and soft, its gone.
If she has been in the dry country most of her life (I did see were the bow was down and holding water, and I would bet it got under the deck floor) chances are, its fine.
If you drill out wood looking chips, she is fine. When done, I use a Oak dowel and epoxy to plug the holes. ( I drill the holes just a smidge or tad larger than the dowel, scribe or grove the dowel, epoxy it and pound it back into the hole. I cut it to length first and pound it in as so its flush with the wood, not fiberglass. They you can use something like Evercoat Lite to fill the fiberglass void.
If you rap on it with a big rubber mallet and all seems fine, leave it alone.

As for the Helm, you can just rebuild it using the patterns that are there. If you want a Starboard helm, now is the time to change it over. I have seen them both ways so its up to you. For the most part, they are on the starboard side of the boat.
I see its rack and pinion which will work just fine even if you move it to the Starboard side.
Check that cable, turn the wheel lock to lock and if Any binding, you Can replace that cable or upgrade to a no feedback steering system. Not much more than the rack and pinion.

For the most part, people have used those 6 gallon fuel cells but I am lazy, I will normally move that weight forward and put tanks under seating boxes.
Its a personal preference.

I know how those girls ride so I move the batteries and tanks forward which helps keep the bow down and the engine is not working as hard to keep her on plane
If I remember right, they set just fine in the water with the bow up when only the engine is on the rear. The more weight you add back there, the harder your motor is working to keep her up on plane.

Looking at your engine, I see where the back is missing the little splashwell bulkhead. Those seem to rot away pretty fast but not hard to replace one.

So, back to the big question, what are your plans with her ?

I guess I am kind of egnorant but what did you mean by foam under the floor boards?

[TheBronze]

What we mean by foam is:

2 Part Closed Cell Poly-Urethane flotation foam.
It is used to fill the voids and provide flotation in the event of a hull breech. On new vessels, it is required by the Coast Guard. On older vessels, it just makes sense and helps quiet the ride.
Think of the space between the sole and the hull as a big drum. Every time you hit a ripple in the water, it is intensified by that empty space.

By filling it with the 2 part foam, you dampen the noise, solidify the hull/sole space, and give yourself a safety net in case you get a hole in your boat.

It is somewhat expensive, at around $80 a kit, but you should be able to do a boat that size with 2 at the max. Do some searching around here for foam threads and I'm sure you'll see some examples of how it is done. I think I did some pics and such on my 404 restoration thread. Coast Guard recommends 4 pound flotation.

Here is an example, but I don't see 4 pound on there. 2 is too light, and 8 and higher is used for sculpting things like surfboards, etc.
http://fiberglasssupply.com/Product_...pour_foam.html

[Helmar]

What we mean by foam is:

2 Part Closed Cell Poly-Urethane flotation foam.
It is used to fill the voids and provide flotation in the event of a hull breech. On new vessels, it is required by the Coast Guard. On older vessels, it just makes sense and helps quiet the ride.
Think of the space between the sole and the hull as a big drum. Every time you hit a ripple in the water, it is intensified by that empty space.

By filling it with the 2 part foam, you dampen the noise, solidify the hull/sole space, and give yourself a safety net in case you get a hole in your boat.

It is somewhat expensive, at around $80 a kit, but you should be able to do a boat that size with 2 at the max. Do some searching around here for foam threads and I'm sure you'll see some examples of how it is done. I think I did some pics and such on my 404 restoration thread. Coast Guard recommends 4 pound flotation.

Here is an example, but I don't see 4 pound on there. 2 is too light, and 8 and higher is used for sculpting things like surfboards, etc.
http://fiberglasssupply.com/Product_...pour_foam.html

Good site for information. I think I might just keep that one
I use what I know works and have had to take out Fiberlay's Adhesive closed sell foam. It was put in a boat with not enough blow holes and he blew the deck screws out and ruptured the cockpit floor. Now, That was a Job that I never want to do again.!!!

That Farallon has a 18" drop from the deck to the hull just as you step down into the cabin. Chuck Careys Farallon took almost a 5 gallon kit. We might have had a gallon and a half left over. But whats left over, you can make a box and use there releasing agent, or lots of wax paper. (Hell, I have even used aluminum foil) and use whats left over to make foam blocks that you can put in behind the cockpit side panels. Doing this does nothing but help her from turtling or rolling over.
I have Ed Browns 21 foot Bell Boy like we did for Bruce Drake that I am working on now and because he is going out into the ocean with her, I will be doing that on every void next to the hull as I can.

And you are more than correct, our restorations makes these boats saver than any of the new ones coming out as we do Not Compromise to save a few pennies.
We have had several checked out by the Coast Guard and they were More than impressed.

And, by the way, on the 27th are you going to meet up with John Nelson at Kingston for the event ? Its about a 20 mile run from Kingston and I more than wish I could make myself but I have a more than full plate as I will be building onto a new shop (4 bays 50 x 38) and them moving from the old shop into the new one.

[Helmar]

I guess I am kind of egnorant but what did you mean by foam under the floor boards?

Ignorant or stupid questions ?? No such thing. Unless you ask the same question over and over
What I meant by under the floor boards is under the cockpit floor.
John is right, its floatation as well as a good sound barrier..

[John Nelson]

A sturdy shed helps a lot with this, You can hold it up with cargo straps till you get blocks under it. Drop trailer hitch all the way maybe jack up the back a little. Block/strap stern up. Raise hitch up till you can see it will clear. Block/strap up bow, tie onto axle and pull trailer out. Styrofoam blocks work great. That boat one on each side of the stern.one under each chine just ahead of bulkhead and under keel in front. Tie the pairs together so they don't pop out.

[timgoodwin]

A sturdy shed helps a lot with this, You can hold it up with cargo straps till you get blocks under it. Drop trailer hitch all the way maybe jack up the back a little. Block/strap stern up. Raise hitch up till you can see it will clear. Block/strap up bow, tie onto axle and pull trailer out. Styrofoam blocks work great. That boat one on each side of the stern.one under each chine just ahead of bulkhead and under keel in front. Tie the pairs together so they don't pop out.

John,
No shed for such a purpose but I do have a front end loader that extends up about 15 feet. That should do the trick with the straps. Thanks for the advice.

[timgoodwin]

Great! You know I have already learned alot since I've joined. I was completely oblivious to the foam and would have made a very bad error had I not come to you guys. Thank you very much

[Helmar]

Great! You know I have already learned alot since I've joined. I was completely oblivious to the foam and would have made a very bad error had I not come to you guys. Thank you very much

This is what we all do
We even use the Flotsom Jetsom area for none boat related things.

[TheBronze]

We are here for each other. Restoring boats isn't particularly difficult, you just need a little guidance and the right materials and equipment. And patience. And lots of fasteners.

Like Helmar said, don't compromise. Use good materials and do it right. You'll end up with a masterpiece.

[Helmar]

John,
No shed for such a purpose but I do have a front end loader that extends up about 15 feet. That should do the trick with the straps. Thanks for the advice.

That should do it.
When I had my shop up in Quilcene I had a pole building shop. Two beams in the joists. I would use the front chain hoist (front end loader) most of the time.
I would back the boat in, drop the tongue to the floor, put blocks or my stands under the rear, then use the chain hoist and chain bolted to the bow eye, rags, and lift the bow.
Then just pull the trailer out, set the stands and go to work.
If I wanted them on the boat dollies, I would just pick the front and then the rear to remove the blocks or stands and then down onto the boat dollies.

Might just check your bow eye to make sure it has not been compromised, bent maybe and make sure its tight.

I also tried your phone number and got a number has been changed, no new number. This could of course, be just the stupid cell phone service.
If not please update your profile, log in, go to My Profile or maybe settings? to change it.
I can walk you though most of what your wanting to do plus give you some things to look for...