Dorsett Farallon Restoration Project/The Beginning

[timgoodwin]

I don't think we got a weight on her so really don't know..

Now that's a good question. How much weight can I safely add into my boat? I mean like cabinet space, fridge, microwave, small onboard generator, fuel tanks, fresh water tanks and so forth. Luxuries and long cruising equipment.

[Skagit Hideaway]

The '60's specs say it weighs 1900lbs and has a load capacity of 3100lbs. That seems like a lot. In comparison, the 56 Skaigit 20 (one foot shorter at 19'-6") weighs 1025lbs and had a capacity of ca. 1500lbs.

[timgoodwin]

That should do it.
When I had my shop up in Quilcene I had a pole building shop. Two beams in the joists. I would use the front chain hoist (front end loader) most of the time.
I would back the boat in, drop the tongue to the floor, put blocks or my stands under the rear, then use the chain hoist and chain bolted to the bow eye, rags, and lift the bow.
Then just pull the trailer out, set the stands and go to work.
If I wanted them on the boat dollies, I would just pick the front and then the rear to remove the blocks or stands and then down onto the boat dollies.

Might just check your bow eye to make sure it has not been compromised, bent maybe and make sure its tight.

I also tried your phone number and got a number has been changed, no new number. This could of course, be just the stupid cell phone service.
If not please update your profile, log in, go to My Profile or maybe settings? to change it.
I can walk you though most of what your wanting to do plus give you some things to look for...

Repaired the phone number problem. Sorry about that. It has been fixed on settings.

[timgoodwin]

The '60's specs say it weighs 1900lbs and has a load capacity of 3100lbs. That seems like a lot. In comparison, the 56 Skaigit 20 (one foot shorter at 19'-6") weighs 1025lbs and had a capacity of ca. 1500lbs.

Where'd you get the specs information from? While we're on that subject, is there a way to get an original owners manual?

[Skagit Hideaway]

http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/Dorsett

[Chelan]

Helmar,

The original head pump was pulled and capped. The bilge pump is mounted under the step into the cabin as you described.

Allan

[timgoodwin]

That should do it.
When I had my shop up in Quilcene I had a pole building shop. Two beams in the joists. I would use the front chain hoist (front end loader) most of the time.
I would back the boat in, drop the tongue to the floor, put blocks or my stands under the rear, then use the chain hoist and chain bolted to the bow eye, rags, and lift the bow.
Then just pull the trailer out, set the stands and go to work.
If I wanted them on the boat dollies, I would just pick the front and then the rear to remove the blocks or stands and then down onto the boat dollies.

Might just check your bow eye to make sure it has not been compromised, bent maybe and make sure its tight.

I also tried your phone number and got a number has been changed, no new number. This could of course, be just the stupid cell phone service.
If not please update your profile, log in, go to My Profile or maybe settings? to change it.
I can walk you though most of what your wanting to do plus give you some things to look for...

It wasn't the phone service. I still use one of those phone clips for my belt and it came off while using my tractor and I drove over it. Bottom line I bought a new phone but I am using my land line for this forum now. So the number reflected in the profile is a good number if you'd still like to call. Sorry for the trouble.

[timgoodwin]

Been Gone Along Time

Have been out of the loop for quite some time due to getting my house ready to sell. We are moving to Coos Bay, Oregon this summer. Not sure of the home yet but we're going come hell or high water. We have decided we want to live by the sea for the later part of our lives. It has been an upside down, topsy-turvey world lately but I stilll have the Dorsett and have managed to get all of the old wood out of her and begin the interior sanding. Will post pictures soon.

So what has everybody else been up to? I see a lot of new members and some hard work taking place here.

Until later.

Tim

[John Nelson]

Have been out of the loop for quite some time due to getting my house ready to sell. We are moving to Coos Bay, Oregon this summer. Not sure of the home yet but we're going come hell or high water. We have decided we want to live by the sea for the later part of our lives. It has been an upside down, topsy-turvey world lately but I stilll have the Dorsett and have managed to get all of the old wood out of her and begin the interior sanding. Will post pictures soon.

So what has everybody else been up to? I see a lot of new members and some hard work taking place here.

Until later.

Tim

As far as the old boat stuff I've been working on a Bearcat that landed on my doorstep, It hasn't run for a long time, valve adj, ignition and carburators looks promising and also a forty horse Johnson for Joe Plug wires, ignition switch and un-automatic choke it.It is running again but the shift shaft seal leeks also looks promising. Mike Pingatore is the first in our group to use coosa board in a transom. That makes it a permanent repair, it looks like it would work good for stringers. I swore to not use my tyee inboard again till I fresh water cool it. It got a new trailer last year and I just moved it next to the welder to start making parts. Hope fully It will be on the move again this fall.

[Helmar]

Have been out of the loop for quite some time due to getting my house ready to sell. We are moving to Coos Bay, Oregon this summer. Not sure of the home yet but we're going come hell or high water. We have decided we want to live by the sea for the later part of our lives. It has been an upside down, topsy-turvey world lately but I stilll have the Dorsett and have managed to get all of the old wood out of her and begin the interior sanding. Will post pictures soon.

So what has everybody else been up to? I see a lot of new members and some hard work taking place here.

Until later.

Tim

Hey Tim.

Lots been going on down here now. Just getting into the new shop and getting that all setup. Moved from Quilcene to Sandy, then from Sandy to Veneta which is just west of Eugene. Was able to lift the 21ft Bell Boy of Eds up off the trailer and now down onto the boat dollies so she rolls around really nice.
My next step is to drop my main rolling table (4x8 with drawers and heavy top) down to 1/8" lower than the big table saw so I can swing around those 4x8 sheets and get back into more of the cabinet making mode for Eds boat.
I have my 20ft Skagit close to being back on the water. John Nelson was able to make up a new stainless head pipe for me (That would have been next to impossible to find and replace, he just showed up with it one day !!!) He also found another head so now we have her cooling in the back were most of the Marine version would not cool well on those old Volvo B-18s so now, I have all the copper and ready to re-plumb the cooling system.

Still have my little cutey Uniflite with the bearcat that I need to work on, valve adjust. My friend in Gresham (Dick, Super Sportster) has all the shims and gaskets, so hoping to get that back on the water soon too.
John Nelson has the pair of 40hp Johnsons that I got from Lon over in Pashaston? and making one run for me.

I was looking at Coos Bay. Lots of navigable water ways down that way. That Farallon was built for those types of waters so she is More than comfortable out in the Ocean if you ever decided slip out over the bar too.
I would sure ware a Kicker motor like I have on mine just to make sure if any issues, you keep her out there and away from any white water.
I have a 15hp on my Skagit 20 that pushes her right along at a pretty good clip.

So, thats it on this end. Good to hear from you again Tim ..

[timgoodwin]

Thanks for the reply Helmar. Changed my profile picture, hope it doesn't scare anyone off. That's a picture of my little pup. Lost him a while back to bowel problems. Great little guy, miss him. Anyway, really glad to hear you are doing so well and still have your Uniflite. Sounds like you are very busy theses days. That new shop is probably a lifesaver.

I removed everything from the inside of my boat and have started from scratch. I did save the pieces for patterns, though. As for stringers, I am still at a loss. She originally had plywood stringers but not sure that is a good idea. They rotted out pretty good and I'm not sure about the foam. Maybe not all the way just part foam and leave the center clear for flow and add a pump. What ya think. Also, I have some pretty devastating hairline cracks all over the hull. I want to re-paint also.

So, any suggestions on any of this? Remember I can't get marine wood here so will have to treat myself. Would like to have the stringers and deck in before I put her on the road to Coos Bay.

PS: There are some composite materials for house decks at our local hardware/lumber store. Can I use that? They come in a variety of colors and say they won't rot, fade or mold. About 18 bucks a piece.

[Helmar]

Thanks for the reply Helmar. Changed my profile picture, hope it doesn't scare anyone off. That's a picture of my little pup. Lost him a while back to bowel problems. Great little guy, miss him. Anyway, really glad to hear you are doing so well and still have your Uniflite. Sounds like you are very busy theses days. That new shop is probably a lifesaver.

I removed everything from the inside of my boat and have started from scratch. I did save the pieces for patterns, though. As for stringers, I am still at a loss. She originally had plywood stringers but not sure that is a good idea. They rotted out pretty good and I'm not sure about the foam. Maybe not all the way just part foam and leave the center clear for flow and add a pump. What ya think. Also, I have some pretty devastating hairline cracks all over the hull. I want to re-paint also.

So, any suggestions on any of this? Remember I can't get marine wood here so will have to treat myself. Would like to have the stringers and deck in before I put her on the road to Coos Bay.

PS: There are some composite materials for house decks at our local hardware/lumber store. Can I use that? They come in a variety of colors and say they won't rot, fade or mold. About 18 bucks a piece.

No worries on your profile picture. I have lost a few of my little guys and miss them pretty darn much too....

See if one of the local companies will bring in some 1/2" MDO plywood for you. That is what she had for stringers to start with and if kept somewhat dry, should last several generations with no issues.
I remember that hull, You have 18" drop just as you step down into the cabin (lowest point in the boat, also were the bilge pump goes, under the steps)

If you use the Fiberlay foam I know for a fact, that is a Great "Adhesive" closed cell foam. To foam from the cabin back will take just over 4 gallons so a 5 gallon kit will be needed. Nice thing about that, the Only way you would be in trouble if you took a hit on the side because if you ran her on the rocks, they would have to come up Though the cabin deck (which will never Ever happen).
I will take a picture of what happens when you leave 4oz in a pot and let it kick (might have to remind me about this is all)
That foam gets pretty hard too!...
Its important you don't have any twist in the hull while doing the stringers. Best is level floor (or leveling with a laser) for keel on the floor, both aft corners the same, then from the gunnels forward of the cabin bulkhead measured the same.

Get your transom in first. You can modify the inside of your splashwell bucket to allow for a thicker transom (2 to 2 1/2", 2" being most desirable) which will go in after the stringers of course. You can setup a small laser level on the keel to mark the tops of your stringers to be trimmed too.
Make sure you seal the hell out of the edges of Any wood going in.

Anyway, blab blab blab.
Make sure to contact me when you get to that stage. I can give you my opinion which is One. Get several more to form your own would be advisable.

[John Nelson]

Tripple s should be able to order plywood for you they have a large number of suppliers. You can check out All pro composites in Belgrade or Advance fiberglass in Bozeman, for composite supplies. You will be relying on their skill to tell you what to use. You can't use decking for stringers it's too rubbery and nothing will stick to it. Please investigate spider crack repair I've done small patches, Its hard to get it faired out. It might be the death nail.

[bruceb]

Great info from Helmar and John. Both have hands on knowledge on restoring glass boats.
Not sure about the characterization of devastating hairline cracks, but they may only be gelcoat spidering. Cosmetic but nothing to "sink" your boat. Maybe someone locally can look at the boat and determine how bad they are ? I've used a high build epoxy primer which fills these and makes them a non-issue, given a good few coats of paint over the primer.
On the issue of stringers, Helmar has the idea- hull has to be supported and stabilized before cutting into it and replacing. After seeing lots of discussion on these old glass boats, I'd only go with hollow structural cloth glass stringers. For forming them, you can use any type of wood( 2x4s,2x6s, laminated ply) as long as you put a release barrier (like mylar)between wood and glass cloth/resin, pull the wood out when set. Tab into hull after cutting/leveling.
Attached is a short support tube I made for transom project that shows the idea for stringer, you'd just make that longer for the distance, fore-aft.

[timgoodwin]

Definitely spiderwebbed but no real damage but the original stringers and support are so rotted that they are like paper mache. Zero support. I'm kinda scared to even step into the inside of the boat but I have to clean her out real good and prepare for re-construction. What to do now?