Wood replacement questions

[sclapsaddle]

Thanks Helmar! I've gone through almost a gallon of the fiberfill. I didn't use it on the gas tank boxes, just left a small gap with popsicle sticks and tabbed the three pieces to the hull and floor then removed the spacers. That's what I've been using to make the pattern, I'm on my second large box of the popsicle sticks and lots of hot glue.
I think with practice the Windows could be made very well, but I didn't want to spend the time or money practicing. I'm not sure how strong they are with a big wave hitting them, I used 1/8" probably should be a bit thicker.
My ideal plan for an outboard is either an Evinrude 90 or 115. Those two units are where they switch from 3 cyl to a heavier 4 cyl, not sure if the extra 25 hp is worth the weight or possible price difference, the evenrudes are the lightest I've found. I'm open to more input on power, allthough I'm sure it's a lot like the makes of truck as to what's better, opinions.
When I do fiberglass work at work and when I did the boat I wear a disposable hooded tyvex suit and an old fresh air hood with supplied air. It is almost pleasant and I get very little glass on me with the positive air pressure. I have an old diving compressor for home that I use, so it is breathable air.

The gas tank boxes I do plan to make some cushions for extra seating. Thanks for the coast guard regs I've found them online.
Thanks for the feed back!

[Kelly]

Nice work man! It's definitely time consuming when it's not your full time job. By the time my 2nd wind kicks in to work on the boat my day is nearly over and momentum plummets.
I'm just glad to see this one get a second life.

[sclapsaddle]

Thank Kelly. Us I don't usually get anything done during the week, I'm tired by that time and after dinner it's about bed time. I hope your able to make some progress on your latest project also.

[Helmar]

Thanks Helmar! I've gone through almost a gallon of the fiberfill. I didn't use it on the gas tank boxes, just left a small gap with popsicle sticks and tabbed the three pieces to the hull and floor then removed the spacers. That's what I've been using to make the pattern, I'm on my second large box of the popsicle sticks and lots of hot glue.
I think with practice the Windows could be made very well, but I didn't want to spend the time or money practicing. I'm not sure how strong they are with a big wave hitting them, I used 1/8" probably should be a bit thicker.
My ideal plan for an outboard is either an Evinrude 90 or 115. Those two units are where they switch from 3 cyl to a heavier 4 cyl, not sure if the extra 25 hp is worth the weight or possible price difference, the evenrudes are the lightest I've found. I'm open to more input on power, allthough I'm sure it's a lot like the makes of truck as to what's better, opinions.
When I do fiberglass work at work and when I did the boat I wear a disposable hooded tyvex suit and an old fresh air hood with supplied air. It is almost pleasant and I get very little glass on me with the positive air pressure. I have an old diving compressor for home that I use, so it is breathable air.

The gas tank boxes I do plan to make some cushions for extra seating. Thanks for the coast guard regs I've found them online.
Thanks for the feed back!

Can't use too many popsicle sticks to nail the pattern down. Saves Many many trips in and out of the boat too. Always can take a tad bit more Off but hell to put it back on. Good Job that !!!

I may have mis quoted, anything over about 30mph they become unstable on the water. Some of the smaller boats with the V8's, like the Skimasters were really wild on the water. Scary in fact. You can have all the power you want to get you up and out of the water but like most of is its in our heads, No such thing as Too Much Power . That goes with guns, cars, trucks too

Something I never did replace when I left Island Boat Shop was that hooded air system from 3M. Also never stepped up to the plate for the Festool system. Pretty all my stuff is porter cable and all I did was hook up one of those power tool switches to my Ridged shop vac so sanding, most of it got sucked into the Vacuum.

What hood system are you using ?? I am still taking on jobs and use the bunny suits but the mask I have is just the one you mash on your face which in heavy fiberglass dust, clogs up way to fast. I go though enough filters I should just upgrade to the forced air one.

Every once in a while you will get the coast guard with a wild hair to view the tanks so yeah got to have them to were you can open them up. Plus if you have fuel gauge senders, those only last a coupe of years now. I will normally put those on a triple pole, triple throw switch mounted horizontal. Double throw double pole works, left for port tank, right for starboard tank. I have electric powered trim boards on my 59 Skagit and due to how much all that Oak cabinet work they did in it she is heavy and those trims work real well for me. That is because she is a old I/0 that you can't trim the outdrive up and down other than a pin.
I remember on one of the bigger boats I installed that automatic trim system with the gyro in it. Move to the port or starboard and it automatically trimmed for that.

The little design I came up with for boarding and seating, you just pitch a Coast Guard throw cushion on them and its a done deal. Once boarded and fishing, crabbing or just don't want them down, folds up out of the way. Seems as that was something the factory never put into the designs back then. Boarding step, stool or even storage for the most part.. I see you designed yours for stowing gear which was a good idea on your part

Looking good !!!!
Helmar

[Helmar]

Thank Kelly. Us I don't usually get anything done during the week, I'm tired by that time and after dinner it's about bed time. I hope your able to make some progress on your latest project also.

You know now how long it takes for the finish work, glad your doing it and not me I will have to go check out progress pictures

[sclapsaddle]

The fresh air hood I have always used is a Grainger unit. It has a plasic head strap with a plastic hose that supplies air, a replaceable hood covering and when painting replaceable tearoffs like dirtbike googles. It also helps with the dirty googles as soon as grinding begins, I would highly recommend one again if your planning more nasty grinding jobs.

Ya more horse power is usually better, I agree. Except in this boat I know no matter what I put on it it is only going to so fast, and that is not the point of the boat for me, however I do want enough power to get myself out of most situations I may find myself if need be and cruise at lower power levels for fuel and longevity purposes.

Good idea on the fuel gauge, less room required with a switch.

I am curious about the techniques for boarding and unboarding these boats, if you happen to have a picture I would be intersted in what the throw cushion in use looks like. A Dock doesn't seem so bad but dealing with boarding on a beach seems difficult to me.

Stephen

[Helmar]

The fresh air hood I have always used is a Grainger unit. It has a plasic head strap with a plastic hose that supplies air, a replaceable hood covering and when painting replaceable tearoffs like dirtbike googles. It also helps with the dirty googles as soon as grinding begins, I would highly recommend one again if your planning more nasty grinding jobs.

Ya more horse power is usually better, I agree. Except in this boat I know no matter what I put on it it is only going to so fast, and that is not the point of the boat for me, however I do want enough power to get myself out of most situations I may find myself if need be and cruise at lower power levels for fuel and longevity purposes.

Good idea on the fuel gauge, less room required with a switch.

I am curious about the techniques for boarding and unboarding these boats, if you happen to have a picture I would be intersted in what the throw cushion in use looks like. A Dock doesn't seem so bad but dealing with boarding on a beach seems difficult to me.

Stephen

I would be interested in the model number of that Grainger unit. I am not done with the glass work yet. I still have at least two of my own boats I want to try and finish. I might be able afford one of those units. I know the 3M one was out of my price range.

One of the things with the motor we used to come up with Way Back When, same times we came up with the NMB which I always got confused with meaning Need More Boats other than it was supposed to be the 12 step program for No More Boats . Also same time we came up with people that had property and would come up with what we called Park-n-hides for stashing them until the good wife was in the right mood. We used the excuse my best friend keeps breaking down and I need the extra power for towing them

Here is what I came up with for boarding steps that works well, someone could design off of this. Pics attached.
These are unfinished of course and they would support me jumping up and down on them at 200lbs.. The idea behind this was my customer was afraid with replaced hips, he might end up over board. Make his way to the rear of the boat were a fold up ladder on the starboard side (could be port but the kicker motor was on the port side), fold the ladder down, using the motor and step get up and unlatch the engine hatch cover (spring gas shocks would take them up out of the way), release the two twist locks and the splashwell door drops down and he crawls his wet butt in..

Normally once you come out of the boat, you put the step down so its ready for the next time to board.
There is a little hidden oak slider with a notch in it that once the step goes down, slide the knee out and it drops into the notch to hold it in place. The top of the step was two pieces of 1/2" Mahogany paneling that was epoxies together and screws on the bottom side hidden with filler to help keep them together, always.

If underway, fold them up for more cockpit room, down and throw a coast guard approved cushion on them to set on..

You can also see the holes I put in for the fenders and whatever to go into as it blocked off how much water was able go over the transom into the splashwell. Batteries and fuel went forward to help balance out the boat and not have to work the engine (fuel economy) as hard keeping her up on plain.

I never had a chance to test this one but did up another one close to this design and it worked well. So always tried to move that extra weight as close the cabin bulkhead (or balance point) as I could.

[Kelly]

I'm doing something similar to Helmar's idea... just modifying it for my personal touch. My son actually came up with the idea and I'm in the mock-up stage now. Looking good sofar..

[sclapsaddle]

https://www.grainger.com/product/BULLARD-Bib-Hood-6AT82
Helmar,
The fresh air hood I've been using for 20 yrs is discontinued, but the one above is similar. I couldn't easily find the headband air line assembly, it does list the parts individually in the description. The steps in the posted pictures make more since now, I've seen those pictures on here and liked what you did, that may givee some ideas. Thanks i look forward to seeing Kelly's version.

[Helmar]

https://www.grainger.com/product/BULLARD-Bib-Hood-6AT82
Helmar,
The fresh air hood I've been using for 20 yrs is discontinued, but the one above is similar. I couldn't easily find the headband air line assembly, it does list the parts individually in the description. The steps in the posted pictures make more since now, I've seen those pictures on here and liked what you did, that may givee some ideas. Thanks i look forward to seeing Kelly's version.

Sorry it took a little for me to get back on this. Ended up with a flu virus and it kicked the wholly crap out of me. Took some time to come back out of that.
Ed has been able to spare some time and come up for CA to help me finish his Bell Boy so been busy on that going full speed it seems. Just trying to get my strength back.

I haven't been able to find the same kind of system other than the one were you are tethered to the air supply. Not sure how much longer I am going be doing this kind of work so not really ready to spring for the $1200 dollar 3M system. I did find some other less expensive ones that if they even lasted 6 months, would be better than what I am doing now.
Back at it...

Helmar

[sclapsaddle]

No problem Helmar, I'm glad your feeling better! Ya manufacturers are always getting rid of the good, usually less expensive options so there's no choice but spend more money on more then you need.
I've made some more progress, I have cut and fit all the trim wood, I still have to router all the pieces to round off the top edges. My plan is to paint all the interior wood and fiberglass light grey and leave the trim wood finish. I made rear seat bases that I will mount seats to for the rear of the boat. I did not get into folding bases, while nice I don't think I need them, I'm not a big fisherman.
I have a question on battery placement. The first picture seems to show a battery box as a foot stool? I am considering doing similar with mounting the batteries in the same location on both sides behind the cabin wall, to move more weight forward and have a built in foot rest. Any opinions on battery placement, more or less difficult, wiring, ect? After painting i'll be moving on to wiring, rigging soon.

[Kelly]

nice workmanship! Stay after it, maybe we'll finish at the same time!

[sclapsaddle]

My wife wants to use it so she gave me until next summer to be finished. Shouldn't be to hard to meet the deadline.

[Kelly]

Seems manageable... maybe we'll still get done at the same time LoL ...

[Helmar]

My wife wants to use it so she gave me until next summer to be finished. Shouldn't be to hard to meet the deadline.

That is normally a good incentive to finish things . Looking pretty sweet so far