Wood replacement questions

[Kelly]

I've seen batteries on these anywhere from the stern to the bow and all points in between. You have a good idea though I would caution putting everything forward. Though the hull isn't a power- planing hull, it's still a planing hull and you don't want to create more stress on the transom then necessary when you're trimming out your outboard.
Stick your arm out level and then put a 50lb dumbbell in your hand, you put stress on your shoulder. Move that weight back up your arm and it eases the stress on your shoulder though it doesn't completely remove it. (I'm sure you understand CG but this may help others understand.)

I like setting my boats up for solo trips meaning I'll counterbalance the weight and and try to obtain the best center of gravity so when I'm sitting at the helm, the boat is sitting close to level on the water.
For some reason it bothers me seeing a boat listing to one side, more so when it's under way.

My plan has been to use a 12gal fuel tank on each side of the cockpit at the cabin bulkhead and have the battery under the splashwell. I'm rethinking this plan and may go another route, but I have other bridges to cross first.

[sclapsaddle]

Thanks Kelly, I went to Kitsap marine in hopes of finding someone knowledgeable about our old boats for a new outboard. (The guy at a local marine store was trying to sell me a 150 for this boat) After all the research I could find my first choice is an evenrude 90 etech, lightest, most power minimal maintenance,etc. The guy I talks to was familiar with Skagits and agreed the 90hp would be fine, he thought any bigger would be a waste on this boat, so that I was glad to find conformation from someone knowledgeable. We were talking and I mentioned I was planning to run two batteries and he asked why, and of course my only reply was because I read and have been told by multiple people I need to run two batteries. We'll I don't currently fish and I"m not planning to have a bunch of electronics on the boat so I think I'm back to my original plan of one battery. I can always bring a small jumper box with me if I am concerned with reserve power. I have truck camper and the single group 24 deep cycle lasts 4 days and nights without a problem. So I think I will put the battery back under the splash well or under the rear passenger side seat, to counter driver load. I put 2 17gal gas tanks a bit forward of the original placement due to beeing on the floor and wanting room for rear seating. So that's a good reason to keep the battery rearward. Working on painting the interior now and just ordered new seats.

[Helmar]

Thanks Kelly, I went to Kitsap marine in hopes of finding someone knowledgeable about our old boats for a new outboard. (The guy at a local marine store was trying to sell me a 150 for this boat) After all the research I could find my first choice is an evenrude 90 etech, lightest, most power minimal maintenance,etc. The guy I talks to was familiar with Skagits and agreed the 90hp would be fine, he thought any bigger would be a waste on this boat, so that I was glad to find conformation from someone knowledgeable. We were talking and I mentioned I was planning to run two batteries and he asked why, and of course my only reply was because I read and have been told by multiple people I need to run two batteries. We'll I don't currently fish and I"m not planning to have a bunch of electronics on the boat so I think I'm back to my original plan of one battery. I can always bring a small jumper box with me if I am concerned with reserve power. I have truck camper and the single group 24 deep cycle lasts 4 days and nights without a problem. So I think I will put the battery back under the splash well or under the rear passenger side seat, to counter driver load. I put 2 17gal gas tanks a bit forward of the original placement due to beeing on the floor and wanting room for rear seating. So that's a good reason to keep the battery rearward. Working on painting the interior now and just ordered new seats.

I did not go though all the posts but did you foam under the deck ?

Short story. My 59 Skagit 20 Offshore has the Volvo B-18 with dual webers on it. Its reported that its producing around 105hp. The boat itself is HEAVY due to what was done on the insides.
Oak roll up cabinets, framework for the seats and then upholstery from the front to the back. The outdrive is like the old outboards, you put the pin or rod in to set the level it sits at.
I do have electric Trim's on the back of her.
One of the maiden voyages was taking her from Mistery Bay (Morrostone/Port Townsend) up though the cut and into Laconnor for the 50th Skagit Anniversary. Then pretty much all the way around Widbey Island back to Mistery Bay. Top speed was 28mph which was Plenty fast for me but for the most part, I ran between 15 to 20 mph. If I was to lighten up that boat by removing all that oak, I am sure she would do better on the speed.
I will see if have pictures of what the insides look like. Some will be the color she was when I got her up in Canada and she got the nickname Purple Haze. Oh, and that boat was Loaded to the gills with food and supplies for the overnight we did in Oak harbor. Plus, she holds right at 40 gallons of fuel so that is when she would do the 29 mph. I was able to make that whole trip, stick the tanks (no fuel gauge) and I still had 9 inches in both tanks (it had a cross over to keep the tanks equal in fuel)

Now, what I have seen is 17 Skagits and some 20 Skagits that had 115 and 120 motors on them. The were pretty much empty boats and the problem seem to be they would porpoise and become unstable above 30 mph on flat water and in the chop, 35 mph and dangerous looking.

I have also had people question me about moving or balancing the boat so to speak. I have seen in the past were people would open the float box in the bow and put Lead in there to help keep the bow down...I could never understand the theory behind doing that. So, I started rigging the boats by finding the balance points, which most seem to be around the main bulkhead and by doing so, your not working that motor so hard to get her up on plain or keep her up there. Just means your not having to work that motor as much which is also less fuel to operate her with.
I have proved my theory of doing that on two of my boats that I have put a inline fuel monitor on.

But, to each their own on what they want. Me I want Easy and not running the crap out of my motors. I can't afford these new engines and replacing them ever 4 or 5 years so I just don't push my old stuff in hopes to make them outlast me.

Good idea with the jumper box too. Less to have to replace as well as carry on board. I have one of those little devices you can hold in your hand and the cable that go onto the battery to jump it with are almost bigger then the unit. Mine will start a diesel truck twice at least.

But for the most part, your running lights don't take that much if you go to LED and then depends on what all electronics you install that you really need a Kill switch on them.

Sure sounds like your on the right track to me with what you have done and doing with the motor.
Helmar
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[Kelly]

90 Evinrude is what I have and its also what's on Bruce's 20. He is happy with it and when I rode in it I was pleasantly surprised by the performance. The new BRPs are efficient and cleaner than a 4 stroke which is why they're the only 2 stroke allowed on 4 stroke-only waters.
The 115hp wouldn't be too much power, but it is a little heavier. Price-wise, the 90 is just right.

[sclapsaddle]

Helmar, yes I filled the floor with foam and also increased the size of the hockey stick reinforcement between transom and center beam with 2" transom. I thought a better use of the float box was to turn it into a cooler for my wifes wine rather then fill it with lead.
Kelly, Glad to here your all happy with the performance of the Etech 90. Man those outboards are expensive! I assume you haven't had any problems with them? I am always slightly nervous with consistent American/Canadian quality, sad to say.

[Kelly]

zero problems with my Evinrude, but also zero hours on it since I bought it during my restore.
I'm pretty sure Bruce hasn't had any issues. The cautionary tale is to have the proper gauge wiring (I'm sure you know this) but the new outboards require precision voltage/amperage to start. My other boat with the 225hp is super picky and commands a good cca battery.
The older stuff, even up to the 90's aren't quite so finicky so you can get away with higher resistance and still fire off.

[sclapsaddle]

I finally made it to a mile stone, the interior is all painted! The gas tank/seat boxes were a lot of work, there were so many pieces. Trying to put two coats of primer and two coats of paint on each piece on both sides and the edges at once took two rounds in the garage with everything hanging almost a full day each. I ended up using Miller's top of there line exterior house Latex and wood primer, over Daily's wood sealer. Seemed to go fine, seams to be durable and has a slight sheen. The floor is Sherwin Williams Industrial Polyurethane/Enamel, that I use at work on chassis/suspension components, Dries hard and is very durable(it rolled on nicely and dried smooth with a slight sheen also). The greys are a bit lighter then what was original, the floor is slightly darker then the sides. I have my seats, and have started the wiring. I still have to finish the exterior of the transom and the exterior of the bow around the eye.

[Kelly]

Wow! That looks awesome! Solid work man.
It's unique and functional but still looks period correct.
What primer did you use on the helm box and water tank? Did you restore the steering wheel yourself? Looks good.
I'd love to check it out someday.

[sclapsaddle]

Thanks! The water tank I polished the gel coat, couldn't believe how well and easy it polished up, I still have to do the helm box. The steering wheel I did restore, it was incredibly corroded, I almost didn't fix it. I thoroughly sand blasted it, then bead blaster to get as far into the small pits as I could, then soaked it in metal prep(phosphoric acid) to eat the remaining corrosion, couple coats of automotive epoxy to seal the aluminum and a lot of high build polyester primer to fill the deep pits, sanded that smooth and painted with some left over auto paint with a flexing agent from work, the flexing agent keeps it fairly soft so it feels bit more rubbery, I was happy with how it turned out. Yes hopefully we can get together next summer for a little cruising on the water.

[Kelly]

Flexing agent... That's a new one to me. I'll look it up, thanks. Mine isn't bad as long as I don't f it up pressing the shaft out.

[sclapsaddle]

It's used to make paint flexible for painting flexible things like modern bumper on cars, the more you use the more flexible the paint stays.

[Helmar]

Thanks! The water tank I polished the gel coat, couldn't believe how well and easy it polished up, I still have to do the helm box. The steering wheel I did restore, it was incredibly corroded, I almost didn't fix it. I thoroughly sand blasted it, then bead blaster to get as far into the small pits as I could, then soaked it in metal prep(phosphoric acid) to eat the remaining corrosion, couple coats of automotive epoxy to seal the aluminum and a lot of high build polyester primer to fill the deep pits, sanded that smooth and painted with some left over auto paint with a flexing agent from work, the flexing agent keeps it fairly soft so it feels bit more rubbery, I was happy with how it turned out. Yes hopefully we can get together next summer for a little cruising on the water.

I too am interested in the Flexing Agent. Got a specific brand use ? Sounds like its almost too good to be true.

[sclapsaddle]

In the auto paint world each paint manufacturer has there own additives, this is for modern urethane clearcoats and single stage paints. I'm not sure if it would work in marine paints. Depending on how much you use the drying time is dramatically slowed down, and Sanding and buffing gets very difficult.

[Kelly]

when you painted your floor did you sand the glass first and did you use primer?

[sclapsaddle]

When I layed up the Mat and polyester resin, I did not use finishing resin, so there was no wax/surface cure. About a year after doing that is now when I painted it, so I scrubbed it with a scotchbrite pad and wiped clean with acetone. The acetone softened the surface and I just put two coats directly over the fiberglass. I've tested a small area and it adhered well. The paint I used has quite a bit of solvents so it bit in well. If the glass has been surface cured,it would need a thorough sanding for adhesion. I don't think primer would be necessary unless there is some filler or your wanting to fill imperfections with it. Usually thinner film build equals more durable for chipping but less material to wear off.