Using pallet racking for a gantry I backed the boat trailer up the ramps to gain some height and slung the hull. Then, after detaching the boat from the trailer, I rolled the trailer down the ramps and out from under the boat. Worked slick. I can roll the hull on its side in the sling straps to work on the bottom.
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Trident hull repair
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To get clearance between the boat and trailer after backing it up the ramps lower the tongue. that raises the stern of the boat. Put the rear sling in place and then raise the tongue. At this point the stern will be off of the trailer.
Now put the front sling in place and secure. Lower the trailer tongue slightly and assuming you have remembered to release the winch line the boat will be free of the trailer. I admit to cheating a bit by using a ball attached to the forks on the forklift to move the trailer tongue up and down but with some patience it can be done using the tongue jack and some blocks. Don't forget to block the wheels securely while up on the ramps. I put an extra cross member behind the boat and secured the trailer to it with a chain to keep the trailer from running away until the boat was off. B
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Nothing more fun than fixing someone else's mess. Another perfect example of no proper preparation. Didn't even attempt to sand the hull before putting fiberglass on. After getting it off I discovered about 90% of it didn't have any damage under it.
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Pallet Racks
Barry -
Nice operation--great thinking.
Hey, do you know where a guy can get some of the pallet racks?
Thanks for posting...
- Martyhttp://www.pocketyachters.com
"If a man is to be obsessed by something, I suppose a boat is as good as anything, perhaps a bit better than most." - E. B. White
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Originally posted by Marty Loken (Norseboater), post: 3340Barry -
Nice operation--great thinking.
Hey, do you know where a guy can get some of the pallet racks?
Thanks for posting...
- Marty
There is a place on hwy 167 just south of Auburn that sells used ones. B
RUSTY RACK GUYS Pacific 877-804-7225
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So the plan was to do the repair to the bottom of the hull as needed after grinding the last person's mess off. Then fix the dash and throw a piece of plywood on top of the floor to make the boat useable for the summer and come back to finish it later. YEAH RIGHT! I should know by now that once I get started one thing leads to another and........................!
Can't figure out why a manufacturer would put a drain hole over to one side while the center of the hull is a good six inches lower.
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Proof positive that you can't always trust the "thump" test.
Always wanted to replace a curved tansom! This one was made up with two half inch thick pieces of plywood and one quarter inch between. The picture shows they used a curved brace about half way up the transom to help hold the shape. If they had continued the inner fiberglass below the floor and down to the hull the wood would not have been exposed to the water trapped under the floor. Also a lot of the stringers are exposed and very poorly glassed in.
The lowest point in this hull is about level with the back of the helm seat so I will be building in an accessible bildge pump there. Seems most of the water under the floor came in through a through hull depth sounder installation so with that gone and the hole glassed in there should be very little chance of water getting below the floor again. A pump will make sure it stays dry. That's about all the fun I can stand for one weekend. Forgot to mention the ant colony in the tansom. Neat!Attached Files
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