58 Skagit express 20' Restore (up north edition)

[Gwilliamson]

As a few of you know, i recently discovered what my dad has had sitting in his yard for 20 or so years. And i managed to get it out of the dirt with bottle jacks and on to a dilapidated trailer for transport to my house. Many projects around the house and life have really allowed me to get going on it like i have wanted but i by snowfall it should be in my garage where i can get going on it for the winter. Plan is to have it done by late spring (when all the ice is gone and it has warmed up for some enjoyable cruising. This first post is going to be a baseline for what i plan on and mostly bullet points.

What we know
-its a skagit
-its 20'
-its got shades of seafoam green,white, and blue (pretty sure it was originally blue and white judging on the some sanding and wear spots.
-it has had an inboard, inboard/outboard, and a kicker but never an outboard as a main engine.
-it has the short keel
-it had a rudder port

What we think
Its a 58 (no id tag yet)
the merc turns over so we think it still runs
the outdrive works but may be seized up

What we have in store for it.
Hull
-Getting everything smoothed out
-patching holes fixing cracks
-a fresh lay up of mat-roving-mat on the keel
-fresh paint (may goto the red with white trim)
-fixing the upper glass cowl
-replace the glass/plexiglass
-smooth inside of hull and paint
-beef up transom
-beef up engine stringers
-raise deck to a self bailing level
-build a hard top
-redo cuddy bulkhead


Electronics
-VHF with short whip-NMEA2000 compatable
-Shore power and generator hook up for honda 2000i
-Simrad 7'' touch screen gps/radar/sounder (with implements for guages, ais, autopilot, nmea2000 comp)
-bluetooth stereo for 3'' guage slot with 2- 6.5'' speakers
-inface mercuiser 3.7l to nmea 2000
-all in one nav light led (has the anchor, port, stbd, and aft all in one for mast mount)
-engine blower
-cabin lights (led)
-switch panel
-wiring for 2 batteries(one for start, one for house)


Motor, propulsion, and steering
-Mercuiser I-4 3.7L 170HP
-replace starter
-replace broken shifter bracket (if anyone has one i'll buy it)
-r and r outdrive(transom gasket) new ujoints at the very least)
-convert to altenator
-tune up(points, plugs, wires, coil, cap)
-order up some kind of nmea 2000 steering since i don't have any.(reason being i can make it autopilot, but mainly because drive by wire doesn't rob power or weigh as much.)

The other stuff
-Make the hard top (as close to original, but it will be removable)
-suspension pedestal seats (because cushions aren't enough)
-6'' cushions for V berth/toilet cover/table
-loose lay laminate for table (its slightly softer and has a little texture to it for a non slip effect)
-cuddy cabin curtains
-implements for engine coolant heater.
-semi fixed propane bbq that can be used for any type cooking, and heat in a pinch
-storage cubbys under v berth for anchor line, tools, parts, gear, clothing, bedding.
-8'' cleats on aft corners, spring, and 1 on bow.
-open top chocks on bow
-maybe a windlass
-build a console from scratch for both sides
-bigger than stock fuel tanks (converting to aluminum, and going further forward)
-Motor cowling
-refinish bifold door original to boat
-NEW TRAILER


Safety
-2 10# abc extinguishers
-flare kit
-3 PFD's (will swap between immersion suits and life jackets depending on trip)
-life sling
-epirb
-horn

And its really late and that took alot longer to type up than i though.

now i'll post up some pics for ya.

[Helmar]

As a few of you know, i recently discovered what my dad has had sitting in his yard for 20 or so years. And i managed to get it out of the dirt with bottle jacks and on to a dilapidated trailer for transport to my house. Many projects around the house and life have really allowed me to get going on it like i have wanted but i by snowfall it should be in my garage where i can get going on it for the winter. Plan is to have it done by late spring (when all the ice is gone and it has warmed up for some enjoyable cruising. This first post is going to be a baseline for what i plan on and mostly bullet points.

What we know
-its a skagit
-its 20'
-its got shades of seafoam green,white, and blue (pretty sure it was originally blue and white judging on the some sanding and wear spots.
-it has had an inboard, inboard/outboard, and a kicker but never an outboard as a main engine.
-it has the short keel
-it had a rudder port

What we think
Its a 58 (no id tag yet)
the merc turns over so we think it still runs
the outdrive works but may be seized up

What we have in store for it.
Hull
-Getting everything smoothed out
-patching holes fixing cracks
-a fresh lay up of mat-roving-mat on the keel
-fresh paint (may goto the red with white trim)
-fixing the upper glass cowl
-replace the glass/plexiglass
-smooth inside of hull and paint
-beef up transom
-beef up engine stringers
-raise deck to a self bailing level
-build a hard top
-redo cuddy bulkhead


Electronics
-VHF with short whip-NMEA2000 compatable
-Shore power and generator hook up for honda 2000i
-Simrad 7'' touch screen gps/radar/sounder (with implements for guages, ais, autopilot, nmea2000 comp)
-bluetooth stereo for 3'' guage slot with 2- 6.5'' speakers
-inface mercuiser 3.7l to nmea 2000
-all in one nav light led (has the anchor, port, stbd, and aft all in one for mast mount)
-engine blower
-cabin lights (led)
-switch panel
-wiring for 2 batteries(one for start, one for house)


Motor, propulsion, and steering
-Mercuiser I-4 3.7L 170HP
-replace starter
-replace broken shifter bracket (if anyone has one i'll buy it)
-r and r outdrive(transom gasket) new ujoints at the very least)
-convert to altenator
-tune up(points, plugs, wires, coil, cap)
-order up some kind of nmea 2000 steering since i don't have any.(reason being i can make it autopilot, but mainly because drive by wire doesn't rob power or weigh as much.)

The other stuff
-Make the hard top (as close to original, but it will be removable)
-suspension pedestal seats (because cushions aren't enough)
-6'' cushions for V berth/toilet cover/table
-loose lay laminate for table (its slightly softer and has a little texture to it for a non slip effect)
-cuddy cabin curtains
-implements for engine coolant heater.
-semi fixed propane bbq that can be used for any type cooking, and heat in a pinch
-storage cubbys under v berth for anchor line, tools, parts, gear, clothing, bedding.
-8'' cleats on aft corners, spring, and 1 on bow.
-open top chocks on bow
-maybe a windlass
-build a console from scratch for both sides
-bigger than stock fuel tanks (converting to aluminum, and going further forward)
-Motor cowling
-refinish bifold door original to boat
-NEW TRAILER


Safety
-2 10# abc extinguishers
-flare kit
-3 PFD's (will swap between immersion suits and life jackets depending on trip)
-life sling
-epirb
-horn

And its really late and that took alot longer to type up than i though.

now i'll post up some pics for ya.

Great Plan !!.

Everyone has there own way of doing things, as you can see here on the Forum
I am a foam nut. I have had one big what I call Blow's of foam were I had put in a little too much so I have this mushroom looking thing about 5" tall and more than a foot around that I have been letting float in the rain barrel since 2007. It still has not taken in any water, sets out in the Sun and all the possible weather you can think off.
Its even been frozen in place in the winters. I use the Fiberlay closed cell flotation Adhesive foam. I will simple green, scrub and pressure wash the hull, run drain tubes from the cabin to the bilge pump area for any water that happens to make into the cabin.
It also make her a Lot quieter when running on choppy water.

Not sure about your plans on the helm windshield, but thanks to Bruce Bridwell (Bruceb) and others, its a 1956 Ford Sedan or station windshield that they cut the center out and made it two pieces.
I have seen people try to put those in and have even broken them. The suggestion is when repairing (I even Cut the windshield frame to relax it and fiberglass while beefing it up.) so you get a Great fit. We or some get our rubber product from Wefco in California and they have on there website a PDF of the rubber products they sell. I can print that out, cut out the pattern to use as a perfect fit. Same with the side rail rubber.
The reason I do this is because that frame will get altered over the years and well, I have been in several 20's and she will take one over the bow.
Mine also has the Hard top (1959 and I think its the same as the 1958).

I never quite figured out what windshield is in mine as its one piece. I have been told it was a 56 to 59 ford Pickup truck but not sure.

Anyway, opinions are like arm pits, we all have them so by asking questions to get enough opinions, you will be able to form your own.

Looken good and like I said, Great Plan !! That boat will outlast the grand kids

Helmar

[Kelly]

love the plan Gabe, glad to know another 58 20 will come back from the land of the dead and forgotten. We share the same eye that sees the potential versus the pile of old fiberglass. Looking forward to watching your progress.

[Gwilliamson]

Well the project has been underway for id say around 3 months and we probably have a good 80-100 hours each into it at this point. (Both Dad and I).

Lots of grinding, everything has been removed from the deck area, and even had to cut out bits and pieces of the main stringers because it was an inboard engine originally and they had u bolts holding the engine bunks on. needless to say after sitting in the weather for 30 plus years since it was last a runner, ALL of the wood in this boat was rotten. with that said the transom was stripped out, replaced, as well as the bulkhead. Our goal is to put back in as little wood as possible.

The only wood in the boat that is original remaining is the bunks, we are probably going to do one layer of mat over all that as well as the bunk supports just to add a little beef and to preserve the little bit of wood that is left.

The Bulkhead is going to be this stuff that my dad and i don't even know what its called but it looks like white plastic cardboard... it is super light with a 4'x8' sheet coming in at no more than about 10 pounds before lamination. This is what we be doing the decks and bulkhead with. stuff cuts pre lamination with a utility knife like butter.

the new door will be made of 1/2'' devinicell.

i managed to make my own cuddy window of plexiglass, so i'm gonna try my hand at the uppers as well.

We decided were not going with the mercrusier mcm 170 as it has much more mass, and more involved wiring. I found a rebuilt sterndrive down in homer and the guy threw in the 140 engine which runs for $500 but has a loose wrist pin or something. So i found a verified good running take out mcm 140, with shifter, trim tilt, and instruments and wiring down in seattle for $500 and is getting shipped up on one of my company's boats for free!

The mcm 140 are a much more simple, smaller and light engine with an alternator (what a concept right).

Sanded the crapper cubby, and sink forms and repainted white with some cool counter top paint from home depot for 30 bucks..

Now the pics.....

[Gwilliamson]

this post has the sheets, the tarped off boat and pre new transom (with the old stuff removed)

[Helmar]

Looks like she is coming along pretty good for sure ..I think your going to like the power train as that will run her right along at a pretty good clip. Mine has the smaller Volvo in it and she is Heavy but she will get up to 28mph. I mean it has a Bunch of Oak cabinet work done on the insides

The Rustoleum paint now is even Marine approved, go figure Just means you could use it Below the water line too.
Looking pretty good for sure !!!

I am interested in that white board ??...I know they make all kinds of different stuff and some stuff (don't know how to spell it) Coosa board? which is one that you can bend around a gallon paint can, then fiberglass the outside of it, let it cure, then fiberglass the inside of it and you have a solid hunk of fiberglass pretty much. It won't hold screws but you have to drill all the way though the stuff and use nuts and bolts.

I did see one write up were they put in a Spline of wood in-beaded into the lay up that you would not be able to access the back side of it and they used wood screws that screwed into that spline piece of wood. Pretty slick.

I know that John Nelson uses that Coosa? board and does lay up with it too. On the rear of his Unitlite, he extended the cockpit area by building a engine mount stand off for the back of the boat, enclosed the transom bucket area. Then on top, it looks like he bent that Coosa board around maybe a 5 gallon pail for the radius he used and raised up the transom area for more free board on the back of the boat.

On the back of my 59 which is almost identical to the 58's, I thought about doing almost that same thing on mine as to raise up the freeboard on it.
Here is a picture of mine at rest in the water or almost at rest.

They have been coming up with some real neat materials. I know Fiberlay is coming up with new stuff all the time too.

[Gwilliamson]

New Bulkhead Glassed in, 2 layers of mat, if anyone is curious were doing poly resin and thicker mat from orca composites.

The transom we did 4 layers of 3/8'' plywood with a layer of 3/4'' over and another layer of 3/4'' where the sterndrive will be. the lay up on the transom was 5 layers of mat roving mat pattern. Because all of the beef!!!! I think we ended up about 3/4'' thicker than the original transom overall.

You will notice we also glassed in a 2x3'' in the sides above the stringers longitudinally and our deck height will be about an inch above that.

Any extra glass and resin we had after a lamination we put from the bulkhead aft in the center above the keel to add strength because we plan on beaching this thing a time or 2 as well as piece of mine not to have to go in the deck, smooth out the bilge for drainage, or reglass anything....

All in all, i really feel like we have shed weight on this boat thus far dispite making things beefier.

[Gwilliamson]

So now, i need to ask something from you guys. Can i get some dimensions on the console for the helm and water tank since my boat doesn't have any of that? Also some pics of how you guys have it set up with gauges, throttle, helm, and nav equipment. i'm really trying to put anything up by the window (no more holes for the love of god, hate patching and filing holes) and would like everything to be flush mount including a 7'' touch gps. But i think i'm going to run out of real estate real quick.

So far what i have drawn up is a 16''x 16'' angle similar to what was stock but more of an angle to accommodate all this stuff...

switch panel (8 switch with fuses)
ignition
usb plug
12v plug
water temp
oil press
voltage (may do digital here so i can toggle between batteries)
Tach
helm with 13'' steering wheel (this is going to eat up a large chunk.)
and hopefully a flush mount compass (this may end up on between the windows)

As far as Nav i really wanna do a 7'' lawerance touch screen and my end up doing a NMEA2000 interface with my engine to eliminate guages.
I'm really getting away from resto by doing the helm all modern but i'm hoping this may in the end streamline the look and make it timeless for purpose of swapping engines, and upgrading electronics.


heres my quick draw up.

[Helmar]

Forgot the picture.

[Kelly]

Oh man I better get on it, you'll have your boat done before me!
Seeing you're making good progress, I'll get you some measurements... tank, helm and the top! I'll take pics too .. I should have time tomorrow.

I hear ya on the grinding...I've burned up one dremel already!

[Kelly]

neither of my 20s have a real set up on the helm yet. I'm still debating on how to go about this on my hardtop since its a full restoration. I'll post pics of the before though...

[Helmar]

Here is what I think is the stock one, but no tank. Kelly just got his boat back and I didn't mount his but mapped it out. He has the tank with his as well.

This one, the customer dropped it 5", same with the seat. He has lots of gauges and switches in this one and notice his nav gear is mounted off the bulkhead.

The one in my 1959 was changed but its also a Offshore model so not much for map dash at all. Lots of cockpit area until it got filled up with the sink and cabinet work.

I think you are on the right track, leaving room for even a Upgrade some time down the line. The screens are about the same size but they units do Much more.

[Kelly]

Let's see if these pics work...
Since Helmar gave you dimensions already, I'll just stick to pics. Notice though, the water tank and helm box are the exact same dimension wise. The water tank is glassed in on the back side with an inlet and outlet hole, so it's a little heavier overall compared to the helm.

[Kelly]

I also noticed your sink doesn't have a hole for a faucet, did you fill the hole or did it not have one? Interesting if it did not.

[Gwilliamson]

I also noticed your sink doesn't have a hole for a faucet, did you fill the hole or did it not have one? Interesting if it did not.

It did not....i found it to be odd too. No trail that it had been patched either...... Thank you Kelly and Helmar for all the pics!!! im gonna start mocking up a helm console out of cardboard tonight and see what i can come up with....

Thinking of having it mount internally (mounting flange) so i can gain a couple inches of real estate for stuff. It will have a hinged or flanged access panel so i can keep it weather tight and obviously still have access.