Stuff needed for Saratogan restoration

[Helmar]

Good tip, Joe. All the little secrets of the trade are real time savers. Thanks!

I need to do a test fit on one of the side cabin windows. These were clamped between the inner and outer fiberglass window frames. A plywood spacer kept the plexiglas centered and gave something to screw the inner frame to. A "U" shaped white rubber gasket sealed the window (supposedly) and was pinched by the frames. Skagit then filled any gaps with conventional glazing compound. Well, this didn't work and the 31 windows leaked like a sieve.

My plan is to bolt the plexiglas directly to the cabin structure with silicon sealer. The initial problem is that the spacing changes and will require modification of the fiberglass frames. I'm going to do one of the smaller windows soon to get an idea of the complexity of the issue.

The front windows are set in rubber weather strip. The long sliders are in wood frames with stainless/ teflon/felt tracks.

A while back a cable channel I saw working with hot plexiglas. They hung the sheet in a vertical oven. When at about 250 degrees, the guy pulled it out and laid it like a blanket over the mold. Looked so easy!

Thanks again, Joe

Hi Tim.
That is what we came up with in the bending of he plex. About 250 and you can get some pretty tight radius's.

As far as the sealing plex In the frames I have some 1/8" Butyl? ( Butte_ull) Rope that I was able to do in the RV window replacement which worked Great.
Also using the butyl tape between the frames and cabin fiberglass where its about 1/16" x 1/2" will do the sealing. If I have any hollows, I will just double up the tape.

I was able to pull all my windows in the RV, use this method and was able to seal everything up nice and tight. No leaks.

The nice thing about this stuff is it does not get hard.
They also make that stuff in a caulking tube but its really hard to jack it out of the tube, but you can lay out the bead you want.

I was looking at other ways to do this, 5200, etc. but I was looking for something with less mess and thicker.

The thinking behind this was the RV's have flex, out in the sun most of the time. Also in the sun, expansion and contraction.
I Hate Leakers

I get so tired of pealing that Silicon crap off things its not funny.
Seems to me that its only a quick fix and fails way too soon.

[Sammamish1]

All of your steel parts are avilable on 4th Ave south in Seattle at Pacific Iron. It's a couple blocks North of Lander.

They will cut to the size you need at no charge and you pay by the pound.

No better deal around in my opinion.

I cut plastic, plexiglas etc on my band saw with a fine dry blade.

I also cut thin aluminum with the same blade and Johnsons Wax for blade lube. You can by it in a 2" Dia tube at industrial supply houses.

Thicker Aluminum sheet and plate can also be cut with your skill saw and a thungsten carbide blade, keep using the wax for lube. I have cut stacks of aluminum, as deep as the blade can be set with no problem. Just wait for it to work and don't force it.

I can't wait to see that boat!!!!

[Nomad55]

Hello Nomad55,

No problem on a ride. I haven't been around the old (fiberglassic) message board much. Can I get your name? I see you are in Bellingham.

Thanks again,

Tim McSkagit

Sorry about that. I am Melanie Pacific and am indeed in Bellingham.

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

Steel Plexi

Hey Jack,

Thanks for the tip on the steel. I'm going to stop at Skagit River Steel and recycling in Mt Vernon and if I can't find it there, will go to Pacific Iron. I've used Pacific Iron in the past....been quite a few years......

I've been cutting aluminum with my skill saw and table saw for years. Makes a mess, but cuts easily.

Johnson's wax....good tip....thanks, will give it a try.

Varnish work is going slowly due to the cool temperatures. Takes 48 hours to cure enough to sand ready for the next coat.

Thanks again,

Tim

All of your steel parts are avilable on 4th Ave south in Seattle at Pacific Iron. It's a couple blocks North of Lander.

They will cut to the size you need at no charge and you pay by the pound.

No better deal around in my opinion.

I cut plastic, plexiglas etc on my band saw with a fine dry blade.

I also cut thin aluminum with the same blade and Johnsons Wax for blade lube. You can by it in a 2" Dia tube at industrial supply houses.

Thicker Aluminum sheet and plate can also be cut with your skill saw and a thungsten carbide blade, keep using the wax for lube. I have cut stacks of aluminum, as deep as the blade can be set with no problem. Just wait for it to work and don't force it.

I can't wait to see that boat!!!!