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21 Foot Bell Boy Anchor Hold.

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  • #1

    21 Foot Bell Boy Anchor Hold.

    Ok, so this will work for pretty much any boat that has the air box in the front. Normally you would leave that air box alone as its a Flotation device for most boats but this one has flotation closed cell foam under the floor board from front to back.
    With our Upgrade in our software, we can now ad Captions to the pictures which I will also do.

    First things first, make the pattern.
    This will show how I made up the pattern, cut it out, made the opening and did a dry fit.

    Well, I can see I can add a short caption to the photos but no word wrap. Will look into that later.

    Because of the anchor hold door is now on a hinge, This door will be able to attach to the Hatch cover. Open the hatch cover and, if hooked up, the anchor hold door will open the same time.
    This will allow a easy access to dropping the anchor line, rode and anchor into the anchor hold. A small clip will be attached to the bottom for a strap that will attach to the anchor rode so once you have the anchor in your hands, you can lower it down into the hold, hook the anchor rode clip to it and lower it down after the anchor. That way, once you get the next stop, you open the hatch over which opens the hold door, using the strap hooked to the bottom of the hatch over, pull the anchor rode, unclip the strap, pull up the anchor and then lower it over the side.
    Using strips of wood and a hot glue gun to make a pattern. Close up to see were the Popsicle sticks are used. The pull the pattern without breaking up your pattern to the wood that you want to use, And, transfer the marks to your wood from the pattern. Using a angle guide, I set the angle to the rear of hull and then on the saber saw. It changes part way towards the bow so you have to adjust a couple of times cutting out your pattern. Normally I will make my cuts on the Outside of my marks as you can take wood off, but you can't put it back on if you make it too small. After cutting your pattern out, now is the time for the trim work to get it to fit as snug as possible. The idea of cutting the edges at the angle is to get a much wood resting on the hull sides as possible...This photo shows were I cut the top out for access. I am lazy in the way its much more easy for me to use a 1 quart paint can or even a gallon paint can to get my rounded corners :-) Here you can see the opening that I created. The reason for this is that the Hatch cover is right above it. The idea is to have this with a cord that attaches to the anchor hold cover and to the hatch cover. This way when the hatch is opened, it will pull the anchor hold door open to make it easy to start dropping the anchor line and rode down into the anchor hold. Once you have the anchor in your hands, lower it down into the anchor hold, drop in the rest of the anchor rode and close the hatch. I was thin
    8 Photos
    Helmar Joe Johanesen
    1959 Skagit 20ft Offshore, 1959 Skagit 16ft Skimaster,
    1961 17ft Dorsett Catalina.1958 Uniflite 17 ft
    Outboards: 2.5 Bearcats, 3 50hp White shadow Mercs
    2 40hp Johnsons, several smaller Old kickers for a total of 12

    Our Sister club
    http://www.goldenstateglassics.com

    Oh, and Where is Robin Hood when you need him??
    Tags: None
  • #2
    The thing I did not get picture of was the backing so the door will just not, well Fall In. The picture lady (good wife) had left for the day.
    What I did was just use a 1" over lap over the bottom of the opening. Use the guide and cut it out so the lid will rest down on it, you can stand on it etc.
    I Also didn't show the Sealing process that I used. No pictures that either.
    Myself, I use a two part Epoxy Sealer. Total Boat is the name of it, cut it with Acetone Seal all the edges or end grain at least two times. Then seal the rest of the wood, put it into what I call my drying room which has the heater in it.

    Most of the pictures have captions that you can read more detail on the process.

    This is the next steps taken. First picture just shows the front view is all, Before I sealed it.
    Notice the wood looks darker, that is because I sealed it with the two part epoxy sealer.
    Then the next couple photos are just the hinge and how I put them on to make sure they stay were I want them while mounting.

    The 4th photo shows no bottom in the anchor hold and were I ground off the paint for at least 70% adhesion for the fiberglass tape. I normally will go for 100% were I can.
    I dropped in the anchor hold floor and its now ready for glassing in.
    Another reason for the anchor hold floor is there are two drain pipes that from the front to the rear stern into a bilge pump area. I put the floor in as the drain pipes were well above the keel so water would just lay in there. Now it runs right out the drain holes.

    I cut the fiberglass tape to fit, cut the fiberglass cloth for the floor of it and made two layers as it will have the anchor rode and anchor banging down on it.
    Mixed up the fiberglass and glassed the bottom and edges of the floor before dropping it into place to seal the edges and bottom from any moisture.
    Now it will dry and get painted by Ed
    Anytime I can save time on things the customer can do and willing to do (like Kelly, I did all the structure work and he gets all the detail work and paint

    Now number 7 shows were I fit the anchor hold top, check the lid, which by the way, will rest up against the Bows' water tank that will get installed. Plenty of room for this.

    Next was cutting the fiberglass tape to fit as all the grinding of the paint was done before the anchor hold floor went in.

    The rest of these pictures will just show it glassed in.

    Hope this helps some folks as this is not hard once you know how its done.



    This is a front view of the anchor hold cover with the lid. I use a pneumatic punch to center punch the holes and just start them one at a time, center, then outer sides as they will sometimes try to move on you. Finished mounting the hinge. No bottom in the Anchor hold so, used the same process with the strips of wood, Popsicle sticks to cut the pattern and same process with the angle cut with the saber saw. I put it down into the anchor hold and use a pencil to mark the area that needed to be ground off. Here you can see were it fits and is ready for glass work. This shows it taped and glassed in. I will cut the fiberglass tape and fit it, put it off to the side and go mix up my fiberglass. I will use Fiberlay's fiberglass P-16 which is a all around laminating fiberglass as well. I also added a fiberglass matt floor to this. Here I set the anchor hold top on, check the door and all for good fit. Cut the fiberglass tape, mixed up the fiberglass pot (6 oz) and glassed it in. Almost invisible but attached to the hull Looking down, you can just see the anchor hold floor through the opening. Shows it finished other than the belt clip that will go on. Notice that I drilled and sanded the edges of a finger hold to be able to just put your fingers in and pull it open by hand.
    11 Photos
    Helmar Joe Johanesen
    1959 Skagit 20ft Offshore, 1959 Skagit 16ft Skimaster,
    1961 17ft Dorsett Catalina.1958 Uniflite 17 ft
    Outboards: 2.5 Bearcats, 3 50hp White shadow Mercs
    2 40hp Johnsons, several smaller Old kickers for a total of 12

    Our Sister club
    http://www.goldenstateglassics.com

    Oh, and Where is Robin Hood when you need him??

    Comment

    • #3
      that looks great! Good idea and use of space..

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