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  • G-3 Time

    After 5 long years of plotting,my little G-3 ,cousin to Chuck`s Cali Girl,my G-3 is getting anew set of stringers ,transom and with any luck,some floors.
    Shell is away from the bottom.
    Got the entire bottom free of wood remnants and the peanut butter leftovers.
    Thinking of doing the extensions on either side of the motor to help float a V-4 or something to make it really go.
    I will be foaming the floor cavity in all areas except the middle which is also getting a fresh slab of structure.
    Even rotten ,the wood put up a fight until all of it was gone.
    My Salvaged Mahogeny door frames once again have found a new life for the two outer slats,with A/B Marine plywood being used on the 3 main center stringers/Keel.
    Tempted to leave some of the old glass to save $ but then again it will add Dead weight.
    Weight is the enemy.........
    Pics to come,hasn`t been much action of late so here is what I`m doing "For Fun".
    Any tips or things to consider would be appreciated.
    The side pods look to have beauty bark in them so a small opening towards the last foot will be made so the corners can be glassed ,then some foam will fill the voids and give me "Level Flotation" if it gets swamped.
    This may be my Slough Racer as the bottom has some nasty gouging already,not a show pony by any means.
    TimM
    Attached Files
    unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
    15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
    SeaRay 175BR
    Hi-Laker lapline
    14` Trailorboat

  • #2
    Tim,
    Good to hear your firing up the G3 project. Keep us posted on the progress. Gets my mind going as to what we are going to do with our G3. The mark75 with the pump is pretty pathetic and needs to be swapped out. Gotta get something going for the slough run. Sitting on the sidelines last year was not nearly as fun as fighting the willows and the shallows! Maybe next summer we can get a few G3's (Chuck, you out there?) together on the water at the same time!
    P.S. I have a period correct short Johny on the adds that would work sweet on a G!
    Attached Files
    Gordon and Cheryl Davies

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Tim_Mattson, post: 7228
      After 5 long years of plotting,my little G-3 ,cousin to Chuck`s Cali Girl,my G-3 is getting anew set of stringers ,transom and with any luck,some floors.
      Shell is away from the bottom.
      Got the entire bottom free of wood remnants and the peanut butter leftovers.
      Thinking of doing the extensions on either side of the motor to help float a V-4 or something to make it really go.
      I will be foaming the floor cavity in all areas except the middle which is also getting a fresh slab of structure.
      Even rotten ,the wood put up a fight until all of it was gone.
      My Salvaged Mahogeny door frames once again have found a new life for the two outer slats,with A/B Marine plywood being used on the 3 main center stringers/Keel.
      Tempted to leave some of the old glass to save $ but then again it will add Dead weight.
      Weight is the enemy.........
      Pics to come,hasn`t been much action of late so here is what I`m doing "For Fun".
      Any tips or things to consider would be appreciated.
      The side pods look to have beauty bark in them so a small opening towards the last foot will be made so the corners can be glassed ,then some foam will fill the voids and give me "Level Flotation" if it gets swamped.
      This may be my Slough Racer as the bottom has some nasty gouging already,not a show pony by any means.
      TimM
      I cant wait to see what youll do to this beauty. A g3 is a g3 no matter how pretty it is. I cant wait untill I get to working on my g3 too. I have a few major hurdles to cross 1st but when the time comes ill be ready. I think im going to raise the transom to make it a long shaft and find a good motor for it, Mike


      PS...I paid $250 bucks for this in 2006
      Attached Files
      >>>Mike<<<

      Comment


      • #4
        Sweet G!

        Mike, good lookin G! Looks like it already has a "good" motor on it. Is that a 700 FGS shorty?
        Attached Files
        Gordon and Cheryl Davies

        Comment


        • #5
          G-3 progress

          Hey Gordon + all,
          Yep , I too have a dose of "Sideline Envy" as the sight of "Wiley" drifting thru the Golf Course portion of the Slough Run was very inspiring.
          Seeing Thom Adams G-3 in pics at the recent event ,leaving an 8` trail of water halfway across a small lake sealed the deal.

          7 stringers are now fully glassed lengthwise,some lateral stiffeners added for some insurance ,plus the entire inner surface totally wetted out so no water can wick into the glass matrix.
          I went with A/B marine plywood on the main pcs,the keel and the stringer on either side of it and used mahogeny for the outer slats.
          Now for the transom which will need to be done in layers,with the first one setting the angle.
          Hope to screw thru old holes into a brace outside the hull,then add screws wherever needed to dial in the needed 12`- 15` angle of attack.
          Hoping the foam up the side sponsons after sealing the rear portion with glass.The new transom won`t extend into them and will resemble a Glastron when I get done.
          Raising the transom to 20`` is pretty much the plan,I can`t afford the re-power option and will use one my OMC motors from another hull.
          The red hull looks nice,but the black and white matches Miss Beehaven so this may stay the same.
          Now I can walk in the boat without the sides moving!
          TimM
          unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
          15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
          SeaRay 175BR
          Hi-Laker lapline
          14` Trailorboat

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by halffast32, post: 7277
            Mike, good lookin G! Looks like it already has a "good" motor on it. Is that a 700 FGS shorty?
            Yes it is a 700 FGS shorty. I havent touched it since I got it but Ill get to it soon.
            >>>Mike<<<

            Comment


            • #7
              How To Eat an Elephant?

              Heard that line recently from a Rummrunner owner when asked how to tackle a really big old boat project,"Quite simple,One bite at a time!".
              Now at 4 layers and built up to 1 3/8`` with one layer of cloth and woven to face it off and a small blended flat spot on back of the transom where the bumped up transom is still stategically bare on the outside.
              That will get layered with woven,Thickened resin until a semi flat spot in which to bolt on a big motor to.
              Shell is getting pretty solid feeling ,even with no top.
              All materials have been donated ,scrounged or just plain pulled from the rafters on this one,except for 3 gallons of resin.
              More pics later tonite,these are from the early week.
              Glad this isn`t as big as an Elephant!
              Tim M
              Attached Files
              unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
              15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
              SeaRay 175BR
              Hi-Laker lapline
              14` Trailorboat

              Comment


              • #8
                G-3 Transom Improvements-Gussett Pics

                Hey Glasspar Fans,
                Was up late doing more to improve the once weak structure in my Centerdeck G-3.
                Screwed and Resined the floor down onto stringers topped with Silica thickened Resin,Glassed the rear seam before fitting the Gussetts made from scrap A-B marine Ply.
                Using Mechanical and Vinlester/Glass to attach then should make them last forever and give me a solid platform that should easily handle 50-115 hp .....or so.
                A lower unit for my older 85 hp V-4 was found for me by a buddy who is helping part a recently sunken Glasspar Citation.
                Hoping to be installing the top shell by next week but am realizing I have Side Pods to foam up and seal somehow.Flotation will be my next concern,Level Flotaion make that.
                TimM
                Attached Files
                unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
                15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
                SeaRay 175BR
                Hi-Laker lapline
                14` Trailorboat

                Comment


                • #9
                  G-3 Adds,Floored,Foamed +more....

                  Been using every last drop of Resins,hardeners,cloth,wood scraps,used fasteners,leftover glass ,2 nd hand Plywood,paneling (High -Tech Ultra lightweight floor substitute for the forward half) Etc......
                  Had to splurge on some 2 part Foam after acquiring a little more HP than I first planned on.
                  Added a flat tab and some footchocks on the sparten forward section to give us a foothold when flying along or turning hard and for mounting either gearshelving or a main fuel tank (Which I am shy of doing for safety.....).
                  Also glassed in a solid Control box mounting bracket and re-glassed the original 2 pc seat brackets that look adj. with the two bolts used to dial in the seat angle.
                  A small side tray for the passenger side will most likely see a Grab handle for the terrified occupant,or Barf bag as someone suggested......
                  I put a small block of wood near the new drain tube for a bilge pump base bracket ,I`ll tap holes and test mt. before top assy.
                  Now for some Primer,grey Bilgekote on the hull insides and floor , and then Re-assembly.
                  I have some details to work out at the splashwell and as it goes together,that will be mocked up as I have to decide on a new location for the Higher transom,now at 20.5 inches instead of the old 15 +.
                  The lower motor holes would hit the lower splashwell edge so it is going to come up enough to clear Engine Mt. bolts and allow for washers on the transom face below the shelf.
                  The outside curved surface will be faired until almost flat to make mounting the motor a tighter fit with no wedgies.
                  Almost there!
                  Glad I foamed it up ,thanx for reminding me Chuckie B.
                  I really am considering flipping it over to tweak the rear planing surface or give it some liftstrakes of some sort,like it needs any more lift,but more for giving it some bite and tracking.
                  My first SAFE boat used to "propwalk" with the 70 hp as it weighed only 310 lbs plus motor......this won`t be much more and I know the hull is stronger than the .100 hull I had to scrap after 4 years.
                  We called that one "SafeButInsane"......hoping for the "Sane" version this time.
                  Attached Files
                  unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
                  15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
                  SeaRay 175BR
                  Hi-Laker lapline
                  14` Trailorboat

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It Flies! G-3 airborne.....

                    DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS AT HOME!
                    Not as cool as the picture seen on another Board ,but....it is really airborne.
                    Had to use the trailer for a quick retrieval and got creative with what I had on hand,namely some Glu-Lam scraps and trailer bunks that straddled the hull as the trailer came out.
                    Anybody thinking thier garage is maxed needs to come see mine.
                    Also posting latest pics of Top Shell inverted and worked on while using the lower shell to hold it.
                    Worked slick,just need to clamp a board with a hole in it so I can pivot the works like on a rotisserie and then drop it into place and re-bed the works as it gets Riveted.Lining up old holes and long rivets should be interesting.
                    Re-glassed all the broken corners and wetted out/Clothed the Dashback ,bottom edges and anywhere the glass looked dry.A new floor tab to bolt the Centerdeck drop-down panel will go in as the assy procceds,hard to wing that one so it will get done last.
                    May even foam the Deck while upside down,that would sure stiffen it up and hide the forward flotation.The rear corners may get it too,but possibly in a removable doorskin box that can be screwed in place once rivets and cleats are installed.
                    Then the Splashwell morphing begins,now a longshaft hull......motor build-up now in progress,basically a newer trim unit wedged into an older frame to receive the mid 70`s style mid-section I intend to use.
                    Flying Boats need some attitude control!
                    Thinking of using the pre-drilled Center steering location.....but will probably make room for a scared occupant beside me.
                    Back to the Fun!
                    TM
                    Attached Files
                    unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
                    15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
                    SeaRay 175BR
                    Hi-Laker lapline
                    14` Trailorboat

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      G3 Hang time!

                      Tim, I suspect this wont be the last time your G3 gets some air! Like the nesting of the hull and upper deck... only takes one parking space that way.I have a short stack of Livingstons kept that way, helps to reduce the actual boat count around here.(In my opinion anyway).
                      What do you use when the upper and lower goes back together for a sealer? Or is that necessary? From what I've seen there is something there but its mostly dried up or gone. Keep up the great work! -Ross
                      Ross Henson

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Rubrail Bedding plan

                        Ross,
                        I intend on using my favorite blend of Slow cure SikaFlex 291-LOT as it gives you plenty of time before it sets.
                        Doing Ken`s Skagit rubrail I used 5 tubes of it but scraped away plenty that oozed after I ratchst-strapped it taught.
                        One recent major discovery was that WINDEX will clean it up before it dries.Saves alot of acetone.
                        I should be painting before assy but sometimes time ,weather and reality set in.
                        I think the hulls were put together with an Asbestos laced gap filler so I`m leaving it alone for the most part unless really loose.Wet it down to keep it somewhat safer.
                        The re-inforced shell is very stiff now.
                        I`m realizing this shell can be pre-rigged with steering ,Bow light and a fuse panel probably much easier to do right now while upside down.
                        I`ll put cable clamps down each side and will have the bilge pump in place before it goes together.....not much room to even sit.
                        TM
                        unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
                        15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
                        SeaRay 175BR
                        Hi-Laker lapline
                        14` Trailorboat

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          G-3 latest pics and progress

                          Hey G-3 fans,
                          Got the rubrail and top shell now attatched with a full row of new Alum Rivets and SikaFlex 291-LOT.Went down pretty easy but needed a ratchet strap to pull the 2 nd side in place.
                          Also got all holes pre-drilled for the splashwell and added some trim pcs to fill gaps and new voids from the new angle I created for the taller transom.
                          Realized my new drain hole will be almost in the water so it will be plugged when launched ,as I do on my Seafair....hmmm same make and year,now with the same quirk.
                          Notice my final swipe of Fairing compound to hide the woven roving pattern.It was done with Pro-Glass and West System 410 fairing powder.ONE SWIPE got it pretty good.
                          I`ll prime and topcoat whatever is visible after the well is bedded and tight.
                          Good old McClendon`s Hardware supplied the rivets as Fastenal didn`t even have the 3/4`` ones I needed.Some small washers were also used where it looked like it was needed when rivets missed on the backside.
                          Steering cable went in late last night,seats in progress.....
                          Fuel and battery box remain ,then a motor for some testing.
                          Tim M
                          Attached Files
                          unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
                          15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
                          SeaRay 175BR
                          Hi-Laker lapline
                          14` Trailorboat

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Tim, lookin good!! Did you pull all those rivits by hand or do you have a pneumatic puller? I use a lot of them on the race car, and my hands feel it for a week afterward! You must of had a little helper for washering the ones under the deck? Glad to see you still plugging along in this cold. My unheated mancave activity has dropped off dramaticly as of late!
                            Gordon and Cheryl Davies

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Rivet Pulling tips

                              Gordon,
                              Having removed a few 1000 rivets in my day ,I`ve learned to use a bigger bit,say 1/4``like an old broken pilot bit.The tips usually wear first so an old bit with a partially good tip will do well in the hollow rivet..Drilling out just the Head from outside on one pass,then using a 3/16``Drift punch to blast out what`s left on a second trip around.
                              Soaking with Fluid Film on the backside helps from blowing out the material next to the old rivet.
                              Ones that don`t budge get the 3/16`` drill bit for final removal.
                              I figured out if you try drilling without removing the button,the rivet will expand and climb up the drill bit which will start reaming out the hole if you keep pushing.
                              Errr: Yes ,I used my hands to "Pull" or install them,after the removal routine described above......miss the air riveteer from the Factory.
                              I used my long arms and a dental mirror to see under the rail while riveting and placing the little washers.
                              The small heater I`ve been using sits in the hull which is keeping me from freezing and I start my evenings with some hand sanding and filing to get warm.
                              50` by next Monday! I`ll be ready to shed water by then,maybe I`ll find some lost tools when the hull rolls outside!
                              Tried to un-roll the rubrail insert and had a pc break right off.Better wait and use some heat.Might have to beg for some leftovers or some used stuff.
                              Really am jealous of Ross`s new "Garage Mo` Hull".I`m sure I have a floor somewhere under the pile of motors.
                              TM
                              unk.year 10` Mahogeny "DragonFly"racer
                              15` SAFE boat w/120 hp Johnson
                              SeaRay 175BR
                              Hi-Laker lapline
                              14` Trailorboat

                              Comment

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