1958 Dorsett Monterey Project

[Will-E]

Looks like I'm going to get this boat, in payment for helping the guy get his other boat home that is 150 miles away. Needs almost everything except the basic hull, and some of the windows. The transom was already cut out in anticipation of replacement, but there it stopped.. I don't believe the piece cut out is still around.
So is there a thread that someone has already done a boat like this?
Was wondering, I've seen a brochure on this boat, but it didn't list the HP rating. It did say the boat was good for twin outboards, which I have no interest in.. I'm not into pushing the boat at high speeds, just a comfortable cruising on plane speed, and a lot of off plane.
However I'll have to get some pictures of what the transom looked like because there is nothing there, including the well.
Will-E.. in Oregon

[Tim_Mattson]

Dorsett

Will,
Welcome,my first classic boat was a Dorsett 17` runabout that also pretty much needed it all.
Check the bottom for being concave from the trailer.It should be flat or just slightly bowl shaped,NOT an upside down saucer which will rob speed and make the bow plow.Mine would barely make it on plane with the whole family on board,a combination of too little HP (25 hp Mercury....)and the hooked bottom.45-70 hp should work good,50 will offer the best miles per gallon with a decent top end plus not require more than 10 gallons per day.
Start with a good bottom,then learn how to make patterns with Hot Glue and strips of Doorskin.The inside skin was merely a layer of cloth that was porous from lack of proper "wetting out".
The wood stringers were also a weak link in mine,they were cloned from the old ones and replaced but I`ve realized the bottom should have been forced flatter before replacing them.
A 5 gallon pale of Polyester resin is in your forecast,a gallon at a time will get pricey and leave you empty when trying to finish a step.
Also read up on Thickeners and Silica Gap fillers/Adhesives which will make it stronger than it ever was.
A final tip is to use Files and Cheese grate type hand tools to rough sand and shape prior to sanding as these will save paper and speed things up.
Acetone wipe prior to ANY sanding /Grinding as any OB hull has oily contaminants,even if just from the rain.Start with a good bubble bath,then Acetone will sterilize whatever you miss the first wash.
Now your plate is full,keep asking if you need to and others will have good advice too.
Tim M

[Will-E]

Thanks for the warm welcome and advice.
I am assuming that the more modern epoxy is not recommened in this instance.. I just happen to have 3 gallons of that, plus tinting, from building a row boat this past summer and also in the process of building a GT Pro racing boat that is about half finished. I don't plan on sanctioned racing it, it is a chance to make at least one fast pass thru my second childhood. Since I gave up a 45 year motorcycle hobby, I thought I'd get the wind in my hair one more time, and this time if I crash, I'd just get wet... I have a friend that has an extra vintage Mercury racing motor he's going to let me borrow.. Well enough of that till later..
I have done some glassing in the past, but using epoxy. I usually add a drop or two of coloring just enough to change the color of the liquid. I generally do not use the same color in progressive batches, so I can monitor the covering better.

[Tim_Mattson]

Will,
The epoxy is actually great for the transom repair as it almost never will fail unless you have more resin than Glass.Shoot for a 50/50 matrix of glass to resin.
The lay-up of stringers and floors can be stopped and started much easier with the Polyester or Vinylester resins which can be simply Acetone wiped between coats.
Seem to recall Dorsetts used Iso Resin.
Epoxy usually needs to be sanded after washing away the waxy surface that forms as it dries.You also should wait for it to cure fully when layering up a transom.
Epoxy could be used for the final layer of transom and then the entire floor surface with a nice final seam of cloth for all seams,edges and especially the corner where the floor meets the transom,usually where it was cracked over time and where water flows right into your stucture.
I usually use Chop strand glass between all layers and to tie corners together ,tearing it will give a better blend into the existing hull instead of neatly cutting it as I first did.A final coat with Cloth will leave a nice paintable surface and gives the wood a real skin.
Squeeze excess resin hard to spread it evenly.Whiter and porous places will need a final pass to get a full seal,knocking off any wicked up glass strands first which will make painting look better/and be easier.
I wouldn`t use tinting unless for the final seal coat.
I try to Epoxy primer as a base ,then roll out easy to apply grey Bilgekote over the repair and new floor.Epoxy can yellow if not coated for UV.
Expect to find 6 stringers under the floor by the way.....alot of work if all are bad!
I`m building an OB speed machine too......nothing like the thrill of high speed on the water and knowing your hull is fresh and tight.
Remember water will be like concrete at higher speeds so respect it.
Tim M

[Will-E]

Yep, used to water ski at about 60mph, got a cracked skull in 1970 from falling and hitting the ski along the side of my head. Have had inner ear issues on my left ear since..
Boat was sitting on a bunk trailer for 7 years, but has been sitting on a roller trailer for a couple years, so I'll be sure to check really close. Weather is delaying me getting it, maybe a window will open up on friday. The boat was an original blue, painted black at one time. Also at some time in it's life it must have had a lost title because current title says make:unknown. Aparently has quite a "colorful" history around the area.
Still have my free 57 Uniflite 14 project to get rid of; put on craigslist, and here in the ads and no one has responded. Probably the time of the year..
Oh, the tinting I would do before, in the epoxy, just changed the shade of the batch from the last one just enough so I could observe coverage over the last batch.
Will-E