Trailer restoration has finally begun...

[Bflaherty]

Some of you may have seen the "questionable" trailer that came with the purchase of our 1969 Chris Craft Cavalier. We have had two major incidents on with the 1968 EZ-loader (dropped the boat on the launch ramp when the winch broke, and nearly lost a wheel on the highway when the wheel bearing siezed) So we have been spending a lot of time on Craigslist looking for a better starting platform to build into a custom trailer for the boat. Three weeks ago we found the perfect candidate over in Bremerton. Now my father and I have spent two weekends hacking a rewelding the trailer into what we "need it to be"... here are some photos of what we started with and where we are now... Still have to finsih the prop guard and build a bunk system, its been a lot more work than we expected as the new trailer was origianlly under stern drive cuddy cabin style boat and we have a much flatter inboard...

So if anyone is interested in getting a structurally sound EZ-Loader roller trailer built for 16-18 foot boat, with trailer brakes
(that need restoration) and brand new lights and wiring. I will have one available in the next month or so... $400 OBO...

(progess photos are too big for forum limits, so I will try a link to my facebook photo album)

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...3d&id=10740765

~Brian

[Bflaherty]

Thanks to my father being bored on Sunday, and a strong desire to get one of my tow boats and 3 trailers our of his yard, he built the backbone for the new porp guard. (I had to return to Bellingham to work on my Vanagon while my VW mechanics were available for house calls)...

Here's the picture My father sent me of the finsihed rear frame for the prop guard...

Now I have to collect more scrap metal from the dumpster at work and next weekend we build the bunks!!!

Other than 1st degree flash burns on my hands and forearms its actually been a fun little project... (Might even consider a side job or two if anyone needs trailer repairs done)

~Brian

[Sammamish1]

Brian, It is such a reassuring sound to hear that strut being dragged over the high spots and know your prop is safe. Mine drags every time I pull it in or out of my driveway. and at a few gas stations that have steep entry/exit ramps.

Good Job!

[Bflaherty]

Yeah, we actually dragged the rudder on the driveway the first time we brought the boat home, so we knew right away that the first modification to any new trailer would be a sturdy prop guard. No I am trying to decide if I want to try and install steel rollers on the bottom so it rolls over curbs instead of scraping all the paint off... The new master craft trailers have the rollers and it seems to work well enough...

[Bflaherty]

weekend number 3... This trailer modification stuff takes a lot longer than we ever expected... I have modified every trailer I have ever owned, but never done this much customization before...

Note to all those thinking of getting a new trailer, find one that was origianlly designed for a boat with similar weight distribution to the one you are considering putting on it... The balance point on an inboard is 24"-36" further forward than an outdrive and closer to 48" further than forware than an outboard...

And after 3 weekends of work, we are almost done with the back half of the trailer... after we set the bunks and get the boat balanced, we have cut about 48" off the front and rebuild with rec tube so we can mount surge brake coupler since the Chris Craft weighs over 2500lbs and we tow it behind the short wheelbase Land Rover...

[slo-mo]

Nice job Brian! How is your prop-guy going to make a living with your new rig?

Forget putting rollers on the back, that scraping sound will let everyone know you have entered the building...plus trailin' sparks is so cool, all the kids are doing it.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cY18Zqy355U&feature=related"]YouTube- Surface - Re-Introduction NEW PREVIEW[/ame]

[Bflaherty]

My prop guy isn't worried at all, I have only had one trailering miss that resulted in prop damage, the other 4 trips to the shop were all caused by poor "depth" perseption on the water... We are hoping this year will go a little smoother since it'll be our second year with the direct drive inboard (last year was decidedly a learning year)

[Bflaherty]

Weeew!!!

Finally after spending the long weekend working on the trailer, instead of romancing the fiance (she had to work the night shift all this weekend and pre-approved this activity), we have finally finished the back half of the trailer...

4 parrallel bunks in the back with the center ones running 3/4 the length of the boat. The outer 2 only run 1/2 the length mostly to help with centering as the center of the bottom at the transom is flatter than the garage floor. Also took the time to reinstall the cavatation plates that were on the the transom when we bought her (thought they were contributing to the handling issues we were having pre-rudder modifications but have now changed believe that they were not the problem and might help with performance)...

You'll notice in the pictures, in order to get the boat onto the new trailer we lifted it by the factory lifting eyes using a "cherry picker" on the transom and a 2 ton chain fall suspended from the garage rafters in the bow... I am sure some of you can empathize, but the heartburn you get the first time the boat leaves the safe support of the trailer and is hanging from only 2 41 year old chrome lifting eyes, is nearly enough to kill a man...

Now I just have to get some 3x3 square tube from work to make a 40" tongue to mount the new disc brake coupler on and build the front centering/stop tower...

And once this is all done, I still have to pull the motor and transmission and do a complete reseal... All before May 2nd, don't think the opening day officials would like seeing a classic ski boat shooting pure oil out the bildge pump...

[Sammamish1]

That looks great Brian!

One thing you might consider for the next remodel is using 2X6 as the outer bunks and adding a vertical 2x4 on the outside edge. Then mount these loosely so they can rotate. The 2x4 will cause them to roll out when unloaded. Then as the boat settles into the 2x6 bunks the 2x4's squeeze against the chines and center the boat on the trailer automatically. I have this design on my trailer and it is a dream to load and unload. It is perfectly centered every time.

[Bflaherty]

It's been awhile

So after nearly a year of use on the new trailer, it's getting to be about time to finally but real paint on it (not just rustoleum primer).

Anyone have any suggestions on paint type, and most efficient prep work to be done so that she will be good looking and hold up for a few years?? I have only ever spot painted trailers after making minor modifications, but this one has had about 75% of the structure rebuilt and thus needs fresh paint.

Thanks!!

[FINS]

I bought 12 cans of white "rattle cans" when I was ready to do my custom finned trailer. Two hours later and a wild case of finger cramps, I had one side rail done. As it dried, it looked worse and worse. I gave up and had it powder coated but the $800 bill was very tough to explain to the War Department.

[halffast32]

Hit the rusty spots with a wire wheel on a 90 degree grinder. Spot the bare metal with some brush on primer. A gallon of Rustoleum in the color of your choice (ACE hardware can mix up any custom color). A few cheap brushes. Roll it onto a tarp, call up a couple buddies and give her #ell!:TwoCents1:About a $50 bill.

[Tim_Mattson]

Petitt Trailercoat

Brian ,
Gordon`s advice is a pretty cheap solution.
I`ve used Petitt "Trailercoat" on occasion with a roller keeping the nasty PolyIsocyani.......stinky stuff......from atomizing in the air.
Fisheries sells it and it looks good on trailers since it`s silver.
Sprayed on it looks great but does require the special gear for lungs and body.Only sold in Qts however.....
The Autobody shops sell stronger paint and primers without costing as much as the Marine suppliers.
A Sealer Primer may be a more permanent base and the car types are also self-etching and sold in bigger rattle cans.
The Gallon size will cover for sure while buying in qts may get you almost there.Go Big.
Also wipe any road oil before any sanding or grinding as it will sand into the surface.....Wash/wipe until clean.
Tim M

[Seakaye12]

Gordon!

Happy New Year!

No; we've never met, but after reading your post above here...I now know it was you...sitting in your car with binoculars.... parked across the street from my house...while I painted my trailer.

You described my method to a "T".

Doesn't look too bad either; until you compare it to one done "properly"....

Chuck in Santa Barbara