Homelite questions on a motor I just saw

[BruceDrake]

So I am starting from essentially scratch here.
1. How do you get the engine cowling off? It looks like it has a pinch type clip at the front of the engine. Given the current engine position and flat trailer tires we can't get the engine fully vertical hence the pinch clip only moves so far since the steering mechanism is in the way.

2. Is there any external serial number and if so where is the bugger hidden. There is one number on the engine mount but that seems like a funny place for a number.

3. Boat was always used in fresh water and garage stored. No visible damage to lower unit but some good dings to cowling. What is one of these worth if there is no way to test it. The guy selling it is the son and is trying to clean out the estate so he can move back to his house in eastern Oregon.

Currently the kit boat, motor, and bizarre Beaver trailer are overpriced. But it is fun to explore the options.

Bruce

[Helmar]

We have one more person in the club that knows these inside out.
That would be Dick Johnson. He has explored more on these engines and wiling to share everything he knows about them.

Just the matter of time before he jumps in here....

[BruceDrake]

Homelite

Bill Roberts answered most of my questions.
However someone else bought the boat tonight so it is no longer an issue.
Thanks for response.

I attached a picture of the boat. 1940s design but built from a 1950 kit plan.
It had a number of nice design features that don't show in the picture.
For those of you with a low ceiling garage note the double folding windshield that goes almost flat.
The hydraulic trailer supposedly lets the boat sit 6" off the floor. Flat tires help a lot as well.

I think their garage was the indoor version of a blackberry patch.

[Dave C]

YIKES:Scared1:
And I thought my place was bad

[Super Sportster]

Looks like I'm too late.

You're right Joe I know 'em inside and out. I've been through a couple lower units but only one powerhead which has not been started as of yet. Won't know how well I've done until I fire that one off. Someone had been into that engine before me and it became obvious that they didn't quite know what they were doing. In time I'll find out if I've corrected the mistakes.

It's a neat little engine design ahead of it's time twice, in it's beginnings and again resurrected as an outboard. The design is nearly 70 years old.

[slo-mo]

As a known two-stroke outboard hater, I've collected 3 runner and 2 part donor Homelite 55's as an alternative to selling a kidney in order to purchase a modern 4-stroke.

These motors are well made, but require a lot of rework to be reliable. I personally wouldn't spend much on one unless it has been completely gone through.:TwoCents1:

[Tim McCrain]

As a known two-stroke outboard hater, I've collected 3 runner and 2 part donor Homelite 55's as an alternative to selling a kidney in order to purchase a modern 4-stroke.

These motors are well made, but require a lot of rework to be reliable. I personally wouldn't spend much on one unless it has been completely gone through.:TwoCents1:

I pretty much agree with Greg. They are well made and engineered, but if the assumption is made that their reputation for reliability extends to one that has sat behind Grandpa's shed for thirty years without being used, that's a setup for dissapointment. Like any old motor, if you take it home, put in fresh gas, fresh plugs, clean the points, start it up and try to run it, you're going to be paddling back to the dock and working on it quite frequently until you eventually replace all the stuff you should have replaced before you took it out the first time. Just because it has good compression and emits a tell-tale stream at idle doesn't mean it's ready to cruise.

If I was deciding what I would spend on one, I would first total up what it was going to cost me to replace every piece of rubber, every bearing, every seal, every ignition system component and the prop ('cause you know it won't have the one your boat needs) and figure on a few full weekends of working on it. If you can't find the parts, don't have the tools, the time, the know-how or the budget, you should pass.

And then call me and tell me where it is, 'cause I never learn ...

Craig Lam

The serial # and Model # are in the front of and below the cowling. I paid $400.00 for mine. Rebuilt the're about $1600.00. There easy and fun to work on. You do need a basic knowlege of engines and tools. All of the manuals are in re-print and also the parts list is available.