Fired off for the first time this year!

[Super Sportster]

Wow, it lit right off! It did it usual smoke like hell at first then cleared out as always. So I'm playing around with it and have never been able to get my idle below 650 rpm consistent, sometimes it will be fine all day, other times it will occasionally hiccup and die. I know this damn thing will idle smoothly at 500 rpm and that's where I need it so some experimenting is in order. I'm finding synchronization of the carbs a bit of a problem coming off idle due to worn linkage and I'm noticing at idle one carb seems to have more suction than the other with both throttle plates backed off. I don't think I've ever had these carbs off this engine so I guess it's time.

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

If any of you Homelite guys have carb sync issues, my neighbor George makes and sells manometers.
George is now in his 80's. He used to race Porsches and has a room full of trophys. George owned a Porsche 904 race car. He adapted his own turbos way before turbocharging became mainstream. He said, if you think 100 mph is fast, try 200 mph!

Okay, the manometer accurately measures airflow.
If you need a manometer, let me know, I'll put you in touch....

Cheers,

Tim

[Super Sportster]

A manometer would be a plus but twin carbs aren't too difficult to set up. The problem here looks to be the linkage attached to the throttle shaft is loose. I'm sure the shaft has two flat sides, the linkage arm slid on then the end of the shaft is peened over. Over the years it has worked loose and not equally between the two carbs causing a slight stumble/roughness right off idle. Also appears to have a worn/bent throttle plate on the upper carb(?). This would not be an issue for the most part except for getting it to troll at a consistent very slow smooth speed which I know it will do. So what to do. The throttle shaft is stainless, the arm is steel so I'm going to fire up the tig welder and weld the arm to the shaft. This will "fix" the slop in the linkage then on to the plate problem if there is problem here.

[Helmar]

That cool Tim. Thanks for the tip.
I happen to have the old one that I used to use on my old tripower setups..
I found it worked pretty killer on my bearcat too.

On another note, I had to work a little harder on mine to get her to fire up.
Pumped the carbs full of fuel and let her set over night. Both accelerator pumps work great still.
Checked the oil, check the points (yep, I still like points).
Flooded her right off but she still fired right up.
Checked the charging so she looks to be (after two years setting) ready to dip into the water.

Now, if I can only get the steering freed up, I will be good to go.
Just found one on the internet, new, Everet for 95 bucks. Might have to get it on its way.
Will know more about that tonight. I really want the Teleflex no feed back system as she has rack and pinion on it now...

Oh, forgot. Mine is idling at 500 rpms

[Helmar]

A manometer would be a plus but twin carbs aren't too difficult to set up. The problem here looks to be the linkage attached to the throttle shaft is loose. I'm sure the shaft has two flat sides, the linkage arm slid on then the end of the shaft is peened over. Over the years it has worked loose and not equally between the two carbs causing a slight stumble/roughness right off idle. Also appears to have a worn/bent throttle plate on the upper carb(?). This would not be an issue for the most part except for getting it to troll at a consistent very slow smooth speed which I know it will do. So what to do. The throttle shaft is stainless, the arm is steel so I'm going to fire up the tig welder and weld the arm to the shaft. This will "fix" the slop in the linkage then on to the plate problem if there is problem here.

You Rat.............You have at Tig welder at home ??
Will the leads go out past the garage door ?

[Helmar]

Gaining ground. Engine running good, checked the charging system and that is working too.
I don't have my polishing equipment so no polishing up the brass and bronze.
This will be a 30/20 boat. 30mph in passing at 20 feet away this time.

[Super Sportster]

You Rat.............You have at Tig welder at home ??
Will the leads go out past the garage door ?

Rat?
Yep bought that when my job went south and they auctioned off everything. 175 amp Lincoln
that had about 10 hrs on it. Buzz box left as this also welds DC stick rod. It's not big but weighs
about 200 lbs. So yes leads would go outside.

Charging system is working, was they're anything wrong? Did you hook up the black lead for the
high charge?

Turns out my throttle shafts are plated brass and the attached arms are tight. I pulled the carbs
yesterday along with several other I have on hand. Comparing how the throttle plate is fit in
each carb I can say quality certainly was not on the top of the list for fitment. I have one carb with a good fit the rest are marginal at best.

[Super Sportster]

[media=youtube]XxbhOZ2eSAQ[/media]

It's back together and idling probably the best is ever has. Through carb cleaning, about the same intake suction on both and right at 500 rpm. Not as smooth as I had hoped but pretty sweet. No more roughness off idle, smooth right up to 5K rpm.

[Craig Aho]

I am watching a couple of Bearcat 55 videos on youtube are these yours Dick? nwvh2000.

[Super Sportster]

I am watching a couple of Bearcat 55 videos on youtube are these yours Dick? nwvh2000.

Yep that would be mine.

[Helmar]

I am not sure if he has that one were some stupid idiot almost ran him down out on the lake...

Way to go on the carbs.....I was not worried and knew you would get it.

[Craig Aho]

I watched a few and did see one with a high speed pass, seemed to close for my comfort. I really like the startup videos Dick. Wish you had one pulling the motor and replacing gaskets etc.

[Super Sportster]

I am not sure if he has that one were some stupid idiot almost ran him down out on the lake...

Way to go on the carbs.....I was not worried and knew you would get it.

Yep that one is there and think I edited my reaction!

[Super Sportster]

I watched a few and did see one with a high speed pass, seemed to close for my comfort. I really like the startup videos Dick. Wish you had one pulling the motor and replacing gaskets etc.

Craig I might have to do that when I get back into another one. Don't know if you've seen this one that I put together for the lower unit: http://home.comcast.net/~273cl72/sit...138ff97d2ccc69

[Craig Aho]

No I hadn't but i will save that page to my favorites. I looked at my motor this morning and noticed still a little oil on the leg and figure it is just a little residual oil since I drained it. I want to make a check list for starting the motor, while I am pretty good at bolting/unbolting stuff a don't consider myself a very good engine man. I have a remote starter and garbage can and can use the battery out of my truck. I would have to put the oil back in the motor as well. How do I stop it from running without a switch, I don't like electricity so I don't want to handle battery cables while it is running. I also will have to buy a fuel line, I have an old fuel tank. Question is should I just go ahead with the gasket replacements since I know it will leak oil otherwise or? I am willing to put the time and energy into this motor since I have it cant afford a new one and think it is a fairly simple motor. Maybe just try to get a compression test completed and then tackle the gaskets before trying to run the motor. Probably the carbs are all dried up and in need of a rebuild, they look dirty etc. Lots of work to do on my boat building and neglected house repairs also.