Best Year

[frogpond]

What is considered the best years for shopping for 55 to restore and why? and while I have your attention does any one have motor or know of individual their willing to part ways with? this will be going on 1958 19' Glasspar Mariner I know it's not going to be flying out of the water more interested cruising, fishing and crabbing. Thanks, Paul

[Helmar]

What is considered the best years for shopping for 55 to restore and why? and while I have your attention does any one have motor or know of individual their willing to part ways with? this will be going on 1958 19' Glasspar Mariner I know it's not going to be flying out of the water more interested cruising, fishing and crabbing. Thanks, Paul

Bearcats are hard to explain in the sense that, you love them or don't.
Me, will never sell mine. I have had my issues but I can also work on it myself.
Simple, all the documents are available, takes a Real Car Coil, not some bastardized OMC expensive Chinese imitation that does not really fit right.
I replaced my coil and Condenser that was a ford, 68 or something. Matched anyway. Little more poop then the stock one for starting.
I flush the crap out of her if I even get Close to salt water.
I can go to NAPA and get my Points, Cap, Rotor. We have one of our members that has rebuilt these from the prop up and knows every inch of them. (Supersportster). We also have people like John Nelson that knows these engines for back up help.

Mine, I think is a 1964? and I do know its a F block. Can't remember now but the F block was one of the better ones.

[Super Sportster]

F Block is the last produced and has all the refinements, these are the factory painted blue engines. The next are the A blocks, which are painted white. These are identified by looking between the top spark plug and valve cover, there is a number 90035 and an F or A below it. These blocks are hard seat and valve capable of running unleaded fuel. That being said I'm running a 1965 w/o the hard seat/valve and have no ill effects yet.

Joe, your block is most likely 1970's

[Helmar]

F Block is the last produced and has all the refinements, these are the factory painted blue engines. The next are the A blocks, which are painted white. These are identified by looking between the top spark plug and valve cover, there is a number 90035 and an F or A below it. These blocks are hard seat and valve capable of running unleaded fuel. That being said I'm running a 1965 w/o the hard seat/valve and have no ill effects yet.

Joe, your block is most likely 1970's

I wrote it down in my repair manual and now forgot it. I that you say this, I am thinking 1972 or 74

[frogpond]

Hi, Thank you all for the help/support just found a 1968 "A" block going to be Winter project but now that I have it I kinda obsessed with getting it going most of it is there, missing shift lever, and carburetor scoops. I need all the bolts to attach lower unit and upper bolts that tie lower skirt cover to upper cowling. Do these bolts have shoulders?. Thanks again, Paul

[frogpond]

Got One

Hi, Thank you all for the help/support just found a 1968 "A" block going to be Winter project but now that I have it I kinda obsessed with getting it going most of it is there, missing shift lever, and carburetor scoops. Thanks, Paul

[Helmar]

Hi, Thank you all for the help/support just found a 1968 "A" block going to be Winter project but now that I have it I kinda obsessed with getting it going most of it is there, missing shift lever, and carburetor scoops. Thanks, Paul

Great Paul.
I am sure there are parts motors around, found them in swap meets even.
Just driving around I spotted a Homelite on the back of a aluminum boat. Looks as its been setting but I think the lower end stuff might be the same.
Supersporter would know that.

[frogpond]

Hi Joe, Filled it up with fresh oil but it started dripping I have the lower unit off so it was kinda disappointing any common problems associated with that problem still going to take it apart a little bit this winter but the suns out and great day to tinker.

[davriker]

The carb scoops were only on the early Homelites... the "Jetson" look. As soon as they went to the single piece hood, they had a plastic baffle that bolted over the carbs and pulled in the air from the bottom. Their function was to reduce the intake noise, and not much else, so once they cracked, most of them were removed.

[frogpond]

Thanks that's good info! I won't worry about that to much then. Paul

[Super Sportster]

Hi Joe, Filled it up with fresh oil but it started dripping I have the lower unit off so it was kinda disappointing any common problems associated with that problem still going to take it apart a little bit this winter but the suns out and great day to tinker.

Paul, is this the engine from Prineville? Did you fill it with fresh oil without the lower unit attached?

[frogpond]

Hi Dick,yes it is A block 1968 it has stopped leaking but I moved on engine stand yesterday and it leaked and then stopped again. My lower unit is pretty stiff wondering about freeing it up with automatic transmission fluid and a litttle acetone any thoughts on that. Paul

[frogpond]

Lower unit is not bolted on. The oil I drained from lower unit had no water or indication of rust.

[Super Sportster]

Maybe I'm confused, which got fresh oil, engine or lower unit?

[frogpond]

It's not you Dick sorry for the scattered thoughts. Both got oil,, I have two concerns originally the leaking of the engine without the lower unit attached. second problem lower unit very stiff.