Ignition Points

[frogpond]

I've seen people talking about points available through NAPA does anybody have any brand names or numbers was at part store NAPA/ Westbay Auto usually very good came up empty. looking for points and condenser and Rotor for 1968 motor. Thanks, Paul

[Helmar]

I've seen people talking about points available through NAPA does anybody have any brand names or numbers was at part store NAPA/ Westbay Auto usually very good came up empty. looking for points and condenser and Rotor for 1968 motor. Thanks, Paul

Hey Paul.
I have that written in my manual but its in a storage facility at the moment.
I will see if I can figure out were in the storage unit it is and let you know.

I got mine from Westbay Napa in Port Townsend too.

[Super Sportster]

looking for points and condenser and Rotor for 1968 motor. Thanks, Paul

This is what info I got a few years ago (NAPA), points CS709, rotor AL58, Condenser AL38, Cap AL352
I can confirm the rotor # is correct, the cap I bought is a different #, AL354

[frogpond]

Thanks Joe yeah kinda surprised me looked at Echlin which what I thought it would be maybe the guy was tired.

[frogpond]

Thanks Dick

[frogpond]

Me looked! This damn phone !

[Super Sportster]

Echlin, yes that's what the #'s I gave you represent.

[davriker]

Cap: Standard Motor Products AL137 $24.08 on Amazon
Cap Lid: Standard Motor Products AL136 $9.50 on Amazon
Rotor: AL102 $11.57 on Amazon
Coil: Bosh Blue 00012 (run without resistor wire) $44 on Amazon
Wires: Solid Core Universal Products R1814 (kit for 6 cylinder tractor- $20 on Amazon)
I wouldn't know about points, mine came with a Petronix ignitor.

Dave
I purchased the above in the last 3 weeks, so I know the numbers are good, and everything was in stock.

[davriker]

IMG_3422.jpg

Picture of the upper and lower cap, coil, and wires on the Homelite.

[frogpond]

Thanks Dave, Dave what does that toggle switch do I have that on my engine but haven't traced out wires. Regards, Paul

[WizardIII]

The toggle switch is to manually regulate the alternator output. Low output is about 5 amps. In the high position the black wire is tied into the gray wire to provide max output. About 14-15 amps. I don't run a lot of electronics so I keep it in the low position most of the time.
YMMV.
Best, Steve
WizardIII

[davriker]

These motors do not have a voltage regulator. They saved $10, and put in a manual switch instead. There are three output wires from the stator sending AC current. Two of them run directly to the rectifier, and the third one runs through that switch. It was assumed that the output from 2/3 of the available amperage would be enough to trickle charge the battery after starting, but not so much that it would over cook the battery either. Points and lights don't care if they get 10 volts or 18 volts, they all work the same. But if you were running a bunch of lights, or trolling, you could flip the switch to high and get full output. But if you left it on high and weren't using power, the excess would just boil off the battery.

I came up with an inexpensive upgrade that replaces the switch, and the rectifier, and adds a regulator. It is a mosfet rectifier/regulator designed for a Suzuki motorcycle.

DaveHomelite Regulator.jpg

[frogpond]

Thanks guys! now I know, nice add on rectifier setup when I'M at that point I'll make something similar right now as I pick my motor up about a month ago I'm just dabbling with it. My guess was it was a security switch. Paul