Needle Bearing removal

[frogpond]

Hi does anybody out there have experience with the removal of needle bearing in the upper lower unit these are located directly below water pump housing. I'm working on a 1968 Fisher Pierce "A" block Thanks, Paul

[Super Sportster]

Hi does anybody out there have experience with the removal of needle bearing in the upper lower unit these are located directly below water pump housing. I'm working on a 1968 Fisher Pierce "A" block Thanks, Paul

Paul, I've pulled those, it's been awhile. I'm thinking I had some 3/8" all thread, washers, and a socket with a diameter larger than the OD of the bearing.

Just digging through parts and tooling I found a bearing and I had this all thread that I must have used. Pretty sure it came out the top side.

A little more digging I found two early intermediate housings, both have the top bearings removed, lower bearings still in place so I defiantly pulled them though the top side.

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[John Nelson]

Mine was mangled and petrified. I had to grind thru the bearing with a dermal tool stopping before I hit aluminum, and peel it out with a chisel and needle nose pliers then have the drive shaft repaired also.

[frogpond]

Thanks Dick I'll give it whirl when i get home from work Tues. now I know which way to pound on it :P

[frogpond]

Mine was mangled and petrified. I had to grind thru the bearing with a dermal tool stopping before I hit aluminum, and peel it out with a chisel and needle nose pliers then have the drive shaft repaired also.

Thanks for your input John, yeah thats about the shape mine is in, squirt some more Kanoil on it and give it another whirl I have a dremel tool yikes that sound like alot of work.

[frogpond]

Dick I can almost read those numbers can you post that thanks, Paul

[Super Sportster]

Paul, # on the bearing? SCE1210

John, you know the collar on the driveshaft that the bearing and seal(s) ride is pressed on. You can make new. I've removed the ones that are not bad but have seal grooves and turned them upside down to get a new seal surface.

[John Nelson]

The 85 didn't use a collar and the shaft was pretty soft. As you know I had cronic water in the 55. One of the times I tank tested it I had little bubbles coming out between the collar and the shaft 7 psi. It got traded off for a Vashon trawler title. I still think about it I blame it on the shift shaft seal. I changed it I didn't seem that good?????

[Super Sportster]

The 85 didn't use a collar and the shaft was pretty soft. As you know I had cronic water in the 55. One of the times I tank tested it I had little bubbles coming out between the collar and the shaft 7 psi. It got traded off for a Vashon trawler title. I still think about it I blame it on the shift shaft seal. I changed it I didn't seem that good?????

I never had my 85 lower apart as it was watertight. Never thought about it not having the collar, definitely wouldn't since the driveshaft was larger. I still have the 85 lower unit complete with the impossible to find impeller.

[Super Sportster]

Thanks Dick I'll give it whirl when i get home from work Tues. now I know which way to pound on it :P

Paul, did you ever get this out? Did you find a replacement bearing from the numbers I gave you?

[frogpond]

Well as a matter of fact I did! : ) just before I went on vacation : )) I took a couple pictures and was going to post to help someone maybe in the same spot. Lets see what we can do that makes sense ; ) .

[frogpond]

It took a little more soaking and pounding but she finally barked it it up.

[frogpond]

To all, so this is how I/you do it, get a piece of 3/8" all thread, buy 3 s.s. 3/8" nuts now thread two nuts on one end string a 1/2"drive socket with a 15/16" O.D. (outside diameter) this is about right the bearing is 1" O.D. your going to use socket utilizing the threads to push the bearing and seal upward make sense you'll see in a minute. the picture shows the setup by tighten the nut you pull the bearing and seal at the same time previously I've been soaking the bearing with Kroil available at Tacoma Screw Liquid Wrench works almost as good Acetone and automatic transmission fluid works better than both. I used some Oak to protect surface and the black bar is a 3/8" plate steel with 3/8" holes drilled through it put all this together as picture shows tighten to about real tight to fairly tight 40 ft lbs. smack the bottom end of the thread with brass punch. a nut threaded even to end as not to damage threads this is what worked for me. This method was given to me by "Super Sportster" I am only sharing the love any problems will be cheerfully addressed. I'm working on finding bearing and seal source and will post when obtained. my unit had two stacked seals literature that I have show only one perhaps someone can shed light on this? Regards, Paul

[Super Sportster]

I'm working on finding bearing and seal source and will post when obtained. my unit had two stacked seals literature that I have show only one perhaps someone can shed light on this? Regards, Paul

Paul, Early units used one seal, later units used two seals. They must have been having a problem and the fix was two seals. When installed the seal spring side is toward the impeller side. Pressure from the pump is greater than gearbox side and keeps those seals watertight. If the seal area on the driveshaft is grooved it is removable, I've just flipped them over and reinstalled with red loctite or you can have new one made.

[frogpond]

That explains why my needle bearings were so rusted up they had the seals in backwards and that's the way I would have installed the new ones as soon as I find a replacement I found several sources on internet for bearing just general search using SCE 1210 bearing number came up with results found a Timken and went with that there was one that had seal on both ends SCE 1210PP on Amazon I wasn't sure if you want it
that sealed up any thoughts on that? thanks for the information seal spring up got it. I have a NOS shaft coming from California my shaft has threads on gear end so unable to flip it around. Regards, Paul