My engine is leaking oil through main drive shaft seal what does it take to replace seal?after removing lower unit I see four bolts/nuts holding retainer plate. Can retainer plate be removed from engine without messing with anything else like crankshaft timing gear on the other side of retainer plate I have condensed service data but is there a better manual out there for sale with more detail?. Looks like the best way is to remove lower cowling to gain proper access to plate. Regards, Paul
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I had to pull the block on mine last year to fix an oil pan gasket leak. That gave very easy access to the retainer and seal you need to replace. Despite being there, I didn't change the seal as it wasn't leaking so I can't say what else you might have to deal with. I didn't remove the upper leg so don't know what type of access that would provide, but pulling the block might give you better access than trying to work from below. Essentially all you need to do is disconnect the wires from the junction terminal, the fuel line, and the water line, remove 6 bolts from the underside of the cowling and lift it straight up._____________________________________
1970 Boston Whaler Sakonnet w/ Bearcat 55
1960 Chris Craft 18' Continental w/ 283 ci V8
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Originally posted by jhomeist View PostI had to pull the block on mine last year to fix an oil pan gasket leak. That gave very easy access to the retainer and seal you need to replace. Despite being there, I didn't change the seal as it wasn't leaking so I can't say what else you might have to deal with. I didn't remove the upper leg so don't know what type of access that would provide, but pulling the block might give you better access than trying to work from below. Essentially all you need to do is disconnect the wires from the junction terminal, the fuel line, and the water line, remove 6 bolts from the underside of the cowling and lift it straight up.
Once my shop is back up and in order, I will get deep into the Bearcat engines again as we are loosing too many people that work on them.
Supersporster has all the repair books, done total overhauls on them, knows were to get everything but the pump impeller.
These engines are pretty simple to work on for the most part. Tune up parts are available at your local NAPA store still.
I have several mods I did to mine. One a starting issue with the old stock coil. Thanks to John Nelson, I used modified my coil holding bracket, used a coil and "Matching" condenser for a 1968 ford 390. The trick is, Matching Condenser to the coil for the proper pico farads.
I still use Points but now that Matches and match books are getting harder to find, you have to guess the point gap if no feeler gauge ;-)Helmar Joe Johanesen
1959 Skagit 20ft Offshore, 1959 Skagit 16ft Skimaster,
1961 17ft Dorsett Catalina.1958 Uniflite 17 ft
Outboards: 2.5 Bearcats, 3 50hp White shadow Mercs
2 40hp Johnsons, several smaller Old kickers for a total of 12
Our Sister club
http://www.goldenstateglassics.com
Oh, and Where is Robin Hood when you need him??
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Hi Joe having a little hard time on the retainer plate in front of seal at end of crankshaft got the motor out as suggested easy to work on but things seem to be stuck in place pretty good I have four screws removed and working a exact blade in between plate and housing soaking in Kroil right now maybe that will free it up any suggestions. Paul
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Been a while since I've had one apart but if my memory is correct there is a spring under the retainer plate and the plate is under pressure. I've got a couple powerheads in the garage and can refresh my memory this weekend with pictures.Dick Johnson
1989 16ft Sylvan (Bought it New)
'57 Evinrude 18hp
'61 Johnson 5.5hp LS
'72 Johnson 6hp
'61 Homelite 55 Shortshaft
'65 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (1)
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Hi Dick there is a spring (25) looks like in front of oil pump gear so looks like retainer plate is just stuck with gasket sealer or old age. So this is under tension strange it's so stuck maybe I need to tap it a little. My next plan was to get on backside of plate with flat side of bolt head and use a slide hammer any suggestions?.Last edited by frogpond; 04-29-2016, 09:33 AM.
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Okay I was mistaken, retainer is not under spring pressure. Must have been thinking of the oil pump gear. I took this off just by tapping on it after removing the screws.
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IMG_0535.JPGDick Johnson
1989 16ft Sylvan (Bought it New)
'57 Evinrude 18hp
'61 Johnson 5.5hp LS
'72 Johnson 6hp
'61 Homelite 55 Shortshaft
'65 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (1)
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Tapping in, ? to rock it a little, could you possibly give me a seal number going to Mcquire bearing here in Tacoma to pick up a spedi sleeve to repair worn coupler seal surface. Was actually thinking of posting about this. Paul
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I've never replaced the seal, I do have an interchange showing a National Seal #472475 and a CR #11763 Take the retainer and coupler with you, they can mic them and find a replacement.
Yes I just tapped on it and it loosened up, there is also an o-ring on the retainer.Dick Johnson
1989 16ft Sylvan (Bought it New)
'57 Evinrude 18hp
'61 Johnson 5.5hp LS
'72 Johnson 6hp
'61 Homelite 55 Shortshaft
'65 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (1)
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Originally posted by jhomeist View PostSuper Sportster, I sent you a PM regarding the manuals Helmar indicated you have. Thanks, Jon
Email sent,did you get it?Dick Johnson
1989 16ft Sylvan (Bought it New)
'57 Evinrude 18hp
'61 Johnson 5.5hp LS
'72 Johnson 6hp
'61 Homelite 55 Shortshaft
'65 Homelite 55
'68 Bearcat 55 (3)
'70 Bearcat 55 (1)
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