Trailer Question

[Karl]

Last summer, I purchased the 25ft Skagit that Marty was offering. It came at the right price, but without a trailer. Marty gave me some suggestions on sizes for correct trailers, but unfortunately my email crashed and I lost everything.

What would be the minimum size trailer that I should get? Both weight wise and lenght? I found a trailer that is dbl ax and approx. 18ft from the rear roller to the bow stop on the winch post. Is that long enough?


Thanks,

Karl

[Lootas1]

I'd say that is too short. In my opinion, the boat should be supported pretty much all the way to the transom. I'm sure others (like Marty, for one) can give you the best advice.

[Tim_Mattson]

Trailer info

Karl,
Too short ,unless you swap out the tongue to a much longer version,which will mean loosening and moving axles possibly.The bow may creep forward of the winchstand but not 7`.Also need room for tailgate to open if that matters to you.
Usually you end up hitting obstacles when moving axles very much, like wiring for fenders being threaded thru holes in frames,frozen bolts that snap when turned,and more.
New tongues are pretty cheap and come pre-drilled if a name brand.
Weight wise,trailers often start with the smaller tires in B or C load range,then capacity can be raised with te D or even E'F load range.Each tire can support only so much.
Frames also have max weight cap potential with 3 x 3 probably a little light on that big a hull (bigger than I`m used to of late).
A trailer with frame of 3 x 4 is needed to reach the 3-4000 lb rating I`d say is the least to use.
Tandem trailers do eat Manual clutches as they have a ton of resistance when any turning is involved.
The new Alum frame trailers are actually cheaper AND lighter by 400 lbs which gives your tow rig a break.
Wooldridge has been putting thier 6-7000 lb 26`Pilothouse hulls on the new Alum Beam type with an avg 1/2 Ton 4x4 able to tow it and with Electric Brakes ,the ability to stop it.Helps sell boats for them as buying a new rig to tow usually kills the deal.
Should have the hull be 2/3rds of the rating but never use a 10,000 lb trailer for a 3,000 lb hull as the suspension won`t work and the hull will be beat up.
Tongue wt should be around 10 % of the overall weight to get proper balance and a tandem will keep this from getting too much.
Savvy EZ Loader buyers got the lightest version of a trailer ,then bought tires seperate....ending up cheaper overall for some weird reason,plus you end up with the 4 tires to sell or use as spares.Always check the Tire Max rating to begin with(actually length too).....then do the math.
Jerry had it right too,last roller should almost be under the transom face,say 2`` from the transom "Heel", or you get a bottom hook over time.
TimM

[Helmar]

That one is too short. If you move the axles back your going to be dealing with too much tongue weight.

Here is a picture were the Trailer fits the boat.
The little RV pulling it, well, I had to get it home somehow

[Karl]

Thanks

Thanks for the info!

Karl

[Marty Loken (Norseboater)]

Skagit Trailer

Karl -

Just noticed your question, and agree with what others have said.

- Marty

[Tim_Mattson]

27` Trailer on C-list!

Karl,
Priced right but realize it`ll need brakes replaced...... Six Roblees in Seattle can make this easy to swallow.
$150.00 for a 27` Trailer is a steal.I`d take a new axle and just roll it home on a single until a shopping list is made.
See Sunday`s C-list Boat listings in Seattle,item in Bellevue.
TM