Can anyone tell me about this Johnson Kicker?

Picked this up from a Thrift store today. The store manager took it home and said it started right up and runs great. The price seemed to be right (I hope) - it was 85.00. One of the bracket handles is broken off but can still be turned with a wrench. My questions are (remember total rookie here):

1. Is this a two stroke?
2. What would the oil / gas ratio be?
3. It seems really cramped on the back of the boat with the Super Seahorse 35. And I guess I'm not a big fan of how it looks. Does it have to be transported on the transom or can it be carried inside..dare I ask...on its side:eek:?
4. In the picture it is just resting on the transom (not clamped). To mount it properly and make sure there is enough clearance between the bottom of the boat and the part of the motor below the propellar (I don't the name of that piece) should it just be screwed on, or should there be a piece of wood in between the clamp and the fiberglass?
5. I know a 4 hp for a 16' foot is not ideal but will it suffice in an emergency?


I will eventually be able to get this to a mechanic for a full inspection but if anyone has the answers to any of the questions I would greatly appreciate your assistance!

[Steve_Kiesel]

You picked that up for a good price. Now the main motor will never fail you again. (Murphy's Law) Here's what I know.

1) It is a two stroke.
2) The mixture is probably 50:1. But to be sure, I would call Norm Boddy. His number is under the Restoration section. Be sure to use two stroke TCW-3 oil.
3) You don't need to transport it on the stern. If it's light enough to be mounted from inside the boat, you could stow it away, provided there is enough room.
4) If the clamps open far enough, you could use some thin wood on the inside and outside. That would keep from scratching up the paint.
5) 4hp won't break any speed records, but as long as it moves the boat along, your covered.

[Helmar]

Transom Bracket shot

Kicker motor.

Most folks put on a Kicker motor bracket.
Look up Fulton Kicker Motor Bracket or just go to Ebay and type in Kicker Motor Bracket so you will see what they look like.
You can find them on Craig list, and even New for about 150 bucks.

You have to drill the holes and add it to the side of the transom and when needed, tilt it down.
Kind of like this one on the back of my boat.
Its kind of hard to see but what the bracket does is hold the engine up out of the water as so its not dragging behind you or in the way, Until you need it.
Then you trip the lever and drop it down into the water.

The other thing you could do is just carry it in the boat with you tucked away the best you can.
When its needed, tie a rope onto it, then to the back of something in the boat ( so you don't slip and loose the little sucker) and put it on the transom.

Hope someone has a better shot of the bracket itself.

The engine looks to be a 4 hp 2 cycle but get the Model numbers off and search the Internet with the Johnson and the Model number for information.
Others will have sites I Know they will share as so you can get all the info on that motor.
If it Runs, GOOD PRICE !!!

Tight Squeeze...Will it work?

Thanks Steve and Joe. I think I would go with the "stow away" option since it is just way to cramped back there with the big motor and I'm not sure there is room on the back of the boat to add a bracket.

In fact, I'm wondering if this is even going to work at all. I've included three more pics, one with the kicker on the starboard side of the big motor, one with it on the port side, and a shot of the back of the boat.

Right now if I clamp it on the transom the kicker steering handle doesn't have any clearance. Is it possible to remove that steering handle and steer it from the other handle that is located in the front middle of the kicker?

If yes, and there is a way to make this work, would you recommend that I mount it on the left or right of the big motor?

If it is just too big and won't work at all anybody need a 4 hp Johnson?


Thanks!

[Tim_Mattson]

Kicker info

Lauryn,
Those are great motors.Same as a 5 + 6hp,just doesn`t rev up as high due to a different cam/carb linkage set-up.
The 4 hp is usually FWD only so the lower unit is simple......look for water in the lower unit as the older seals go bad when sitting awhile.
The motors also run better when de-carbonized as they build up crud inside and lose combustion chamber size as well as scuffing the cyl walls.Get some Engine Tuner,Ring-Free or equivelant.
The fuel hoses and carbs need a rebuild kit if they still have the old black gaskets and cork float inside.Getting to it is harder than doing the carb itself.If hoses are rock hard or crusty,then change them all.
The motor also has a T-stat on top of the cyl head,3 bolts and you can remove it for a test run to see if water shoots out or not.If it trickles out ,then water pump change is in order.Some remove it so it may not warm up as it should! Only pull or run it without if it repeatedly clogs up.
If it flows well,then seal it up and go test run it to see if it holds up when warmed up and running with a load.
These 2 cyls will idle smoother than some new 4 strokes.
The fuel pump on it now sells for $89.00 so you did very well.
I`d only use a bracket if you needed to raise it for running without dragging the prop,all you gain is a better reverse,which we rarely use anyways.
I troll with mine in one position,then steer with the main motor as it has a bigger rudder.
Goodluck,
Tim M

[McSkagit Tim Jones]

That 4 horse has the weedless propeller and lower unit...for runnig in shallow water without the propeller getting balled-up with eel grass, etc. The weedless doesn't make quite as much thrust as the more converntional lower unit/prop. 50:1 oil is fine. Can run 50:1 oil in any older OMC outboard that has tin plated pistons. That's from about 1954 onward...

McSkagit

Lauryn

One of the things I do at work is change all the "I can't"s into "Yes you can". Take three deep breaths letting each one out slowly. Eliminate the word "Can't" from your life and check out my thoughts below. (Hey! I had a thought!)

Number one, It doesn't look right. For the most part neither do PFD's but we use them because without them we could sink. LOL When you were sitting with a dead motor last week would you have cared how it looked? With that said you will probably want to store it on board. Not much room on your boat but I'm thinking a plywood box made to fit the motor and secured to the boat so it won't bounce around might work and could be used as that "extra" seat when fishing etc.
Number two, The gearbox is hitting the transom. To experiment put a piece of 3/4" plywood or 1x2 between the outside of the clamp and the transom. Can't tell from the pictures for sure but that might solve the problem. If not moving the spacer lower behind the clamp on the outside will change the angle of the motor and increase the clearance. You are not going to be wanting to try and fit a loose spacer in there while installing the motor on the water. Would be interesting to see though in three foot seas.LOL I would secure the spacer to the clamp.
Number three, Steering. First off let's remember that you are not using this to do a competition slalom course. It doesn't have to be perfect to get you home. You can steer it by anything you can reach but I would look at the steering arm first. Can't tell from the pictures for sure but it looks like there are no controls on the tiller arm. If that is so them it should be easy to modify or replace the arm with an "L" shaped one that would come straight up from the motor enough to clear the steering cables etc and then forward. You might be able to leave the stock arm vertical and clamp/bolt an extension to it. In my case I would be looking to see if I could make up a short linkage to quick connect it to the main motor for steering.

I admit to having the advantage of a full "fab" shop to play in but if I can help you with the tiller arm just let me know. Barry

Thanks for all the information and suggestions!

Barry, I like the idea of either an L shaped arm or some way to link it to the main motor. The plywood box is also a great thought for storage / extra seat.

[pathfinderz1]

If you want the year and fuel mix for the motor copy and model numbers and post your question here also ask for the right plugs at the same time.
Here's the link.
http://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/Y...ard=askamember
These guy know about outboard motors the anywhere else on the net.
If the numbers are not on the transom clamp then look inside the hood on the lower half.
Mike

[Steve_Kiesel]

Lauryn, like Tim M said above, you can use the main motor as a rudder to steer. I use to that with my last boat, a 23ft Tiderunner. I would head for a sheltered bay, fire up the kicker, and just putz along steering with the main. Very relaxing and enjoyable.

[Captain Jack]

Kicker mount bracket

Most folks put on a Kicker motor bracket.

Look up Fulton Kicker Motor Bracket or just go to Ebay and type in Kicker Motor Bracket so you will see what they look like.
You can find them on Craig list, and even New for about 150 bucks.

Hope someone has a better shot of the bracket itself.

Here's a shot of a Fulton bracket:

The Cap'n

[John Berg]

That is the perfect motor for your boat

1. its paid for
2. It didnt cost you alot so you dont have to baby it
3. Its light enough to put on when you are stuck
4. Its small enough to store way up in bow or in under back seat
5. you dont have to clutter up your cool classic look.
6. your done. Go enjoy the water
John