winterizing a boat

With the cold weather getting closer, I started to think about the boat and what I might need to do to protect it. Its my first winter with a boat and I would hate to miss something and regret not asking come next spring. It will be sitting out side under a tarp.

the gas tank is discounted and as I mentioned I have two tarps over it. I used PVC tubing to build a make shift frame in the main compartment that goes from engine to windshield and across the width of the boat that is elevated to allow the rain to run off and not pool (looks like a hardtop by the shape of the tarp profile) to try and keep it dry. All of the life jackets are removed and put away.. and the battery is discounted and stored in the shed

anything else I should be worried about..

thanks

Ken
One of the things I do with my boats is to put a dehumidifier such as Dri-z-air inside to keep the moisture level low and mold out. That way you don't have that musty smell come spring. (IMO)

[Lootas1]

I run an RV/boat dehumidifier for the same reason. Also, make sure there's no water in the motor to freeze and crack. Drain the lower unit and replace oil, run the engine with the fuel line disconnected to leave carbs dry. Make sure the fuel tank is bout 95% full to prevent condensation and still allow for expansion when it gets warm and you have Stabil or some fuel stabilizer in the tank.
Jerry

[BillF]

Be sure to dress warmly when you go boating.

[Dr_Frankenmerc]

Har-r-r-r-r,...Har-r-r-r-r-r,....GOOD COME-BACK Bill. No winterization needed if you just bundle up and keep on boating!

Following are a couple 'winterization' posts I have snagged off the inter-net.

#1)
Winterizing Your Boat

The time and effort you spend now will have a definite effect on your boat's performance, or lack of it, and certainly save you time, effort and money come spring. You should remember that your insurance policy may not cover damage done by lack of maintenance or neglect.

The best place for your boat to be during the winter is out of the water, under cover, in a climate-controlled boat storage area. This, however, can be expensive. If don't have this option perhaps you should consider shrink-wrapping your boat. This, too, is a little expensive but provides a very protective cover. Short of these two items, make sure that your boat is well covered with a tarp or some other sturdy cover.

Your first step in winterizing should be to make a checklist of all items that need to be accomplished. Check the owner's manual of your boat and motor(s) for manufacturer's recommendations on winterization. If you are a new boat owner, perhaps you should employ the assistance of a friend with experience in winterizing or hire a professional to do the job. The following is a generic outline of areas which should be of concern to you, however, there are many resources on the Internet with more detailed and specific information.

Inboard Engine(s) - You should run the engine(s) to warm it up and change the oil while it is warm. This tends to allow impurities to be drained away with the oil. You should also change the oil filter(s). Flush the engine(s) with fresh water. You should circulate antifreeze through the manifold by using a pickup hose from the waterpump to a bucket of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the antifreeze to circulate until water starts to exit the exhaust. This process will vary slightly depending on whether you have a "Raw Water" cooling system or an "Enclosed Fresh Water" cooling system. While you're in the engine room you should also change the fluid in your transmission. Remove spark plugs and use "fogging oil" to spray into each cylinder. Wipe down the engine with a shop towel sprayed with a little fogging oil or WD-40.

Stern Drive(s) - You should thoroughly inspect the stern drive and remove any plant life or barnacles from the lower unit. Drain the gear case and check for excessive moisture in the oil. This could indicate leaking seals and should be repaired. Clean the lower unit with soap and water. If your stern drive has a rubber boot, check it for cracks or pinholes. Grease all fittings and check fluid levels in hydraulic steering or lift pumps. Check with your owner's manual for additional recommendations by the manufacturer.

Outboard Engine(s) - Flush engine with fresh water using flush muffs or similar device attached to the raw water pickup. Let all water drain from the engine. Wash engine down with soap and water and rinse thoroughly. Disconnect fuel hose and run engine until it stops. It is important to follow a step by step process to make sure that all fuel is drained from the carburetor to prevent build-up of deposits from evaporated fuel. Use fogging oil in the cylinders to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons. Apply water resistant grease to propeller shaft and threads. Change the gear oil in the lower unit. Lightly lubricate the exterior of the engine or polish with a good wax.

Fuel - Fill your fuel tank(s) to avoid a build up of condensation over the winter months. Add a fuel stabilizer by following the instructions on the product. Change the fuel filter(s) and water separator(s).

Bilges - Make sure the bilges are clean and dry. Use soap, hot water and a stiff brush to clean up any oil spills. Once the bilges are clean, spray with a moisture displacing lubricant and add a little antifreeze to prevent any water from freezing.

Fresh Water System - Completely drain the fresh water tank and hot water heater. Isolate the hot water heater by disconnecting the in and out lines and connect them together. Pump a non-toxic antifreeze into the system and turn on all the facets including the shower and any wash-down areas until you see the antifreeze coming out. Also put non-toxic antifreeze in the water heater.

Head - Pump out the holding tank at an approved facility. While pumping, add fresh water to the bowl and flush several times. Use Vanish crystals or whatever your owner's manual recommends that will not harm your system and let sit for a few minutes. Again add fresh water and pump out again. Add antifreeze and pump through hoses, holding tank, y-valve, macerator and discharge hose. Again, check your owners manual to make sure that an alcohol-based antifreeze won't damage your system.

Interior - Once you have taken care of the system you should remove any valuables, electronics, lines, PFD, fire extinguishers, flares, fenders, etc. Over the winter these items can be cleaned, checked and replaced as necessary. Open all drawers and lockers and clean thoroughly. Turn cushions up on edge so that air is able to circulate around them or, better yet, bring them home to a climate controlled area. Open and clean the refrigerator and freezer. To keep your boat dry and mildew-free you might want to install a dehumidifier or use some of the commercially available odor and moisture absorber products such as "No Damp," "Damp Away" or "Sportsman's Mate."

Out of Water Storage - pressure wash hull, clean barnacles off props and shafts, rudders, struts and trim tabs. Clean all thru-hulls and strainers. Open seacocks to allow any water to drain. Check the hull for blisters and if you find any that should be attended to you might want to open them to drain over the winter. While you're at it, why not give the hull a good wax job? It is probably best to take the batteries out of the boat and take them home and either put them on a trickle charger or charge them every 30-60 days.

In Water Storage - Close all seacocks and check rudder shafts and stuffing boxes for leaks, tighten or repack as necessary. Check your battery to make sure it is fully charged, clean terminals, add water if necessary and make sure your charging system is working. Check bilge pumps to ensure they are working and that float switches properly activate the pumps and that they are not hindered by debris. Make sure either to check your boat periodically or have the marina check it and report to you. If in an area where the water you are docked or moored in actually freezes, you should have a de-icing device or bubbling system around your boat.

By following some of the above suggestions, you should be in good shape for the winter. Do not, however, neglect to consult your owner's manuals for manufacturer's recommendations on winterizing your boat and other systems. If you have not done a winterization job before or don't have an experienced friend to rely on seek out a professional to do the job for you.



#2)
Winterize
Take care of your motor. Whether you live in a warm climate or freezing
snow, your motor needs help.

Fill up your tank and add a fuel stabilizer. Run the motor for 10 minutes to
distribute the stabilizer. The last few minutes use a fogging oil sprayed in
each carb to fully lube and rust protect the interior parts.

After you turn off the motor drain each carb of gas and tilt the motor up to
get all the remaining.

DO NOT run the motor out of gas. The last minute or so you are leaning out
the fuel mixture until it dies. This causes excessive heat and lowers the
rust protection in the motor. Always manually drain the carbs.

If you want a dry fuel system do the above and then drain the tank. Very
easy and the best way. A wet dry vacuum on blow will dry a tank in short
order. A completely dry tank is safest, particularly with the gas of today.
Then in the spring you are assured of a good fresh supply. Also those in the
north are now using a winter blend and that can cause havoc in the summer if
left in.

Grease all the fittings and moving parts with a light coating of grease.
Drain and refill the gearcase. If there is any water you will find it now.
Store the motor in a vertical position. Store the motor with the motor
turned all the way to the left (as in a right hand turn). If the gunk, rust
and grease should harden in the tilt tube the steering will only stick a few
inches in the tube. If you leave the motor in the opposite position it will
freeze up the whole deal. Do try to turn the motor back and forth each week.
Make sure there is no old corrosion or grease on the output end of the
steering cable.

You can spray a very light coat of CRC or other non-flammable light lube
over the entire motor. If the spray is a flammable type it can eat the
wiring and rubber parts. WD-40 is bad for this.

I like to put a plastic bag or pillow case over the motor to keep small
critters out. A few moth balls in a little bag, hung under the motor cover,
will work wonders too. Also in the boat will help, particularly under the
dash.

Take your battery out of the boat. If you have a eminence charger it is good
to use it once a week. I don't recommend leaving it continuously attached.
Put a light coating of grease on the battery terminals.

Remove and dry all ropes, lines and life preservers. Dry out any
compartments. Make sure your drain plug is out. A boat cover is your best
friend, inside or out, use one.

This should give you a good head start on a summer of fun next year.



I found both worthy of a cut-n-paste and printed them to review each winter.

In regards to the de-humidifiers like the dri-z-air,...Those containers work great with driveway de-icer which is much cheaper, but the same chemical which is Potasium Cloride.
Thom

[Bigfoot]

Wow Dr Frankenmerc, That was a good read. Thanks for the post, Mike

For those that hadn't noticed, like me, Sea Foam is also a good fuel stabilizer. Sometimes it helps to read the instructions I guess.